Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,626 total · 18/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on Nov 27, 2006 with updates from Optimistic
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The bottom crux is thin fingers, but easier if you move left and work a sidepull on the left of the pillar. The mid section is a bit sandy. Most of the time your feet seem to be on the face and not in the crack. Someone looking for a short, fun, non-splitter crack will enjoy this climb and it's a good intro lead for newbie Indian Creek climbers.

Location

On the left face of Charlie's Pillar climb a left, then right-leaning varied fingers-to-hands crack - ending at the same anchors for Charlie's Pillar. Easy to TR after doing Charlie's Pillar and a good quick warm up for the cliff.

Protection

Doubles .4-#2 Camalot - though it is short and you probably won't need all of them. #3 is optional.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
For the record, this climb is not actually called "Brodie Machine." I was at the Optimator wall in nov 06, and a friend i was with sratched "Brodie Machine" into a rock.

Edit: sorry, what i meant to say was the plaque at the base is in fact a "retro plaque." As in, the name "brodie machine" was not given by the FA. Feb 21, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9
It looked exactly like a plaque, therefore I assumed it was the name of the climb. It also isn't in the guidebook and wasn't on MP yet. If anyone knows the "true" name of this climb please inform us. Why did he scratch Brodie Machine in a rock? Feb 24, 2007
Charlies Pillar,
FA Josh Gross we climbed both the chimney and the short s splitter. and placed the anchor years ago. Apr 24, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
So is this the same route already posted as Charlie's Pillar, or a variation? How do you want it named Josh? Apr 24, 2008