Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,383 total, 18/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on Nov 27, 2006 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


74 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The bottom crux is thin fingers, but easier if you move left and work a sidepull on the left of the pillar. The mid section is a bit sandy. Most of the time your feet seem to be on the face and not in the crack. Someone looking for a short, fun, non-splitter crack will enjoy this climb and it's a good intro lead for newbie Indian Creek climbers.

Location

On the left face of Charlie's Pillar climb a left, then right-leaning varied fingers-to-hands crack - ending at the same anchors for Charlie's Pillar. Easy to TR after doing Charlie's Pillar and a good quick warm up for the cliff.

Protection

Doubles .4-#2 Camalot - though it is short and you probably won't need all of them. #3 is optional.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
So is this the same route already posted as Charlie's Pillar, or a variation? How do you want it named Josh? Apr 24, 2008
Charlies Pillar,
FA Josh Gross we climbed both the chimney and the short s splitter. and placed the anchor years ago. Apr 24, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
 
It looked exactly like a plaque, therefore I assumed it was the name of the climb. It also isn't in the guidebook and wasn't on MP yet. If anyone knows the "true" name of this climb please inform us. Why did he scratch Brodie Machine in a rock? Feb 24, 2007
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
For the record, this climb is not actually called "Brodie Machine." I was at the Optimator wall in nov 06, and a friend i was with sratched "Brodie Machine" into a rock.

Edit: sorry, what i meant to say was the plaque at the base is in fact a "retro plaque." As in, the name "brodie machine" was not given by the FA. Feb 21, 2007