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Routes in Middle Small Wall

Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marmalde T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Souders, B. Hayes, 1984
Page Views: 1,565 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

The oldest description I recall was from the Hackworth Guide, which referred to the route as epic.
The first Bronaugh guide stated:
"An epic, regardless of the outcome."
Bronaugh's second book said something more like:
"Seek and you shall find- your epic."

In my opinion, the word adventure is more appropriate, and the route is much maligned by any association with danger or such. The word "epic" in climbing is too loaded for this association. The route is actually quite good! Still, the details on this route have always seemed somewhat slim, in books, by word of mouth, from friends, etc... perhaps to preserve the adventure of it, and I'll leave that as such.

I showed up for a few days in Y2k and had not ever done this route. I recruited a friend, "G.I." Jeff Dul to go do this with me. Although I liked the route a lot, his conclusions were significantly different:
1) "That had nothing to do with climbing."
2) "I bought the ticket, so I took the ride."
The latter being a Hunter S. Thompson Quote, I believe.

P1: Climb a few cracks to reach a shallow left-facing corner just right of a slot, progressing up and left to join the most obvious crack system through steep territory with long reaches and complex jams (5.10+) for a pitch to just below the large roof.
P2: Traverse out right below the roof to the lip and pull the lip to get up into the crack above (crux, 5.10+) and forge your way to the trees at the top of the cliff.
The grades on both pitches might seem a little sandbagged if you are expecting to compare this to area sport climbs where endurance is the key.

Location

Just right of the approach trail's arrival at the cliff there is a large dihedral capped by a looming roof and a wide crack to a flaring slot above, and approached by a pitch of intermittent and parallel cracks through a steep wall on the left, below. Climb these to the top of the cliff in 2 pitches.

Protection

A standard rack up to an old-style #4 Camalot.

Photos

DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
The rock in the hanging belay is quite scary and hollow. I would recommend doing the hanging belay at the end of the roof instead of the beginning. If you don't belay from the end of the roof, be extremely careful in your placements because your rope can get stuck behind your cam lobes on the cam you place at the end of the roof right before the offwidth. Feb 8, 2017
khowe
Knoxville, TN
 
khowe   Knoxville, TN
 
Epic and adventure are perfect words to describe this classic multi-pitch at the Red, but I would also add "sustained." This route does not let up the entire 200'+, from the first move off the ground, to the difficult last 20' off-width. My friends and I did this route in 3 pitches for better rope management. Route could be done in 2 pitches bypassing the hanging belay under the roof, but would cause a considerable amount of rope-drag. Cordalette anchor at 1st belay ledge. Double-ropes to rappel. May 27, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
4 pitches for a 200' route?!?!?
I didn't have any drag problems the way I protected it. Sep 5, 2013
Classic Outing here. Dont be intimidated, all gear is good, dont think a PG is needed. Sorry Tony B. Break down in 4 pitches is best to avoid rope drag and makes one of the cruxes better to cope with.
1st belay on first ledge, quite spacious and beachy.
2nd on next ledge.
3rd hanging below roof.
Possible to link into just two pitches but I would advise double ropes for this. Upper crux is obvious and heinous, but a blast. With one last note, 3.5 and 4 old camalots work great up high and watch a loose block in the roof if you hang the belay(4 camalot works great here). Best multi pitch in the Red(Jungle Beat is a close second). Jul 10, 2012