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Clip Jr.

5.6, Sport,  Avg: 2.3 from 228 votes
FA: Kelly Cordner, Brian Phillips, Scott Ayers, 4/1997.
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Warm Up Wall
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

This climbs a pillar, on the right side of the lower left side of the wall, then up an arete.
Some tricky moves are encountered just before the anchors.
This is to the right of "Welcome to the Gorge".

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angela cruising up Clip Jr on the Warm Up Wall. (Really the Cool Down Wall, at the end of a hot day in the Gorge!)
[Hide Photo] Angela cruising up Clip Jr on the Warm Up Wall. (Really the Cool Down Wall, at the end of a hot day in the Gorge!)
Shannon up this great starter lead.
[Hide Photo] Shannon up this great starter lead.
Clip Jr
[Hide Photo] Clip Jr
Topping out on Clip Jr.
[Hide Photo] Topping out on Clip Jr.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Good arete climb for a beginning climber, especially as a first lead climb. Feb 23, 2009
Wes P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, gets run out in the middle, but its super easy climbing. Jul 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] Quick climb up the pillar and first 3 bolts leads to a slightly runout 4th bolt, then to the arete and some fun moves up to the top. Fun easy climb. Jun 2, 2011
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] I personally would not put a first time leader on this route. Jan 31, 2015
Gen King
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, although run out between 3rd and 4th because it's more like a scramble but after that you are climbing up some slightly inverted surfaces before you reach that next bolt and it's a total mind screw. Crux comes at the top before the anchors. Pumpy but a lot of good feet. Thought the rock was rather slick. But what is nice is that it is in the shade for hot summer days. I thought it was harder than a 5.6 but maybe it's just because I'm short (5'4") and relatively new to sport leading. Sep 25, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Nevada City, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Replaced the worn Mussy Hooks with new ones today.

We also replaced the old quick-links with new plated & tested ones from France.

Thanks to the ASCA for the new hardware! May 5, 2016
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.7+ R
[Hide Comment] The route has moves that feel stiffer than 5.6. Funny, how routes with sustained climbing, no harder than 12a get an overall grade of 12c, 12d, or even harder, but sustained 5.6 climbing only remains 5.6.

There is no way I would send either one of my kids to lead this route. The route name makes it sound like it would be a good lead for youngster beginners, however, anyone of shorter statue and fairly new to leading would a) get the hell scared out of them on the run out section and then b) have an acrophobic episode trying to clip the 4th bolt. The upper section is overhanging in spots and has some long moves. I would soil my pants watching my kids lead this. Aug 17, 2017
munge
 
[Hide Comment] Bottom moves have become slightly more polished over the last 10 years. Nov 23, 2017
Liz Lampson
Sunnyvale, CA
[Hide Comment] The runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts wasn't concerning to me, a 5'10" person who could clip from the ledge and who's been climbing outside for several years. I agree that Breaking Wind or High Seas would be a much less disconcerting introduction to outdoor climbing for a beginner used to climbing in a gym (and possibly not used to efficient body movement to utilize an arete), although I didn't actually think there were any long moves besides the reach to the 4th clip. Nov 6, 2018
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
[Hide Comment] feel free to add a bolt in the run out section. i remember having difficulty finding suitable rock for one Nov 9, 2018
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] This one felt as hard as Babushka today? Feb 11, 2024
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.8 X
[Hide Comment] Quite a lot of polish, plus the 7-8m runout section has significantly upgraded this climb. While the runout section is only 5.4, there is 20m fall potential with rope stretch onto the arete here which you may not survive. Be careful. Sep 13, 2025