Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Steve Hong, I assume
Page Views: 8,684 total · 46/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2022 Raptor Avoidance Areas! No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.

(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!

Location

maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.

Protection

FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.

Photos