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Routes in Sacred Cow Wall

Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sacred Cow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Steve Hong, I assume
Page Views: 5,054 total, 38/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.

(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!

Location

maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.

Protection

FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.

Photos

Robert Daniel.
Denver, Colorado
 
Robert Daniel.   Denver, Colorado
 
Black metolius might fit better in the headwall, but greens absolutely work as well. Nov 28, 2016
Highlander
Ouray, CO
Highlander   Ouray, CO
Sam, I think Luke Stefurak added that bolt sometime between 2011 & 2013. Apr 27, 2016
Does anyone know when the 5-piece that was at the top of this was placed to back up the original Hong bolt? Just curious Apr 26, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12
There isn't a move of 5.12 on this route but you'll have a 5.12 pump by the time you get to the top of the headwall. Apr 2, 2014
Lizzy Trower
Stanford, CA
 
Lizzy Trower   Stanford, CA
 
I was not psyched with the fit of .75 Camalots, I would have been much happier with more black metolius or #2 Friends for the upper headwall. Mar 27, 2011
This climb is all hand jamming and the upper headwall is thin-hands, #2 friends. 12a tops for the girls, maybe 12b if you're hands are bigger. Twin Cam just to the right is STOUT compared to Sacred Cow. Apr 12, 2010
Harold
Bayfield, CO
Harold   Bayfield, CO
That black metolius size is getting into thin hands for some. I bet this would feel wicked easy if you had small hands. Nov 7, 2008
d-know
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
black metolious cams fit perfect in
the headwall splitter. Jan 19, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Having a couple Omega Linkcams solves the problem of finding the right cam size to fit in the headwall fingerstacking splitter. If you have them, save them for the top. Aug 21, 2007