PRINT: Rock Climb Weeping Willow, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Weeping Willow

5.11d X, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Cameron Tague & Steve Levin, April 2000.
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

As the arch terminates onto the green headwall the climb switches from power underclings to crimps with poor feet and big moves. Fight up the face slightly right into a semi hueco, .11d R.

Cast straight up the gorgeous face from the hueco culminating in heart throbbing moves just past a tinny sounding hold leaving you to "talk" to yourself, .10b/c X.

Location

From the bottom of the Upper Ramp roughly 50' left of the start of Jules Verne find the sweeping right to left tapering brown half arch. Begin as for Green Willow Wall at the right edge of the half arch in a left facing dihedral and establish a stance on a large flake just before turning the roof of Green Willow Wall. Under cling the arch leftwards until it merges with a green face and climb up and slightly right to a large pseudo hueco. Climb straight up 30' from the hueco then veer slightly left and continue on to the belay at the end of the crux upper pitch of Jules Verne. Finish on Jules Verne or one 60m rap back to the Upper Ramp.

Protection

SR with double sets of smaller technical cams. Bring along a #3 Big Bro if you really want to create the illusion of pro at the hueco.