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Sun Devil
5.11b PG13,
Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 44
votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Walt Wehner, Josh Smith, 4/1999
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
> Sun Devil Wall
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
This route is great fun, but it can also be dangerous due to loose rock - wear a helmet and be careful! Days upon days of cleaning went into putting up this route, but there is still potential for rockfall, especially in the spring after the winter freeze/thaw cycle.
Pitch 1 climbs a chossy looking but reasonably good slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor. 120 feet, 5.9. Pitch 2 is the technical crux, climbing up a bulge on thin holds (with a lot of exposure!). 5.11b, bolted throughout. Pitch 3, in my opinion, is the real gem. It climbs an 80 foot pitch of perfect basalt with incredible exposure and fun moves. Also 11b, though I consider it easier than the second pitch.
Protection
Bring 15 quickdraws and a 200 foot rope. Helmets recommended.
[Hide Comment] The rock was surprisingly solid, I guess we were expecting the worst bc/ of all the warnings. After the crux bulge on p2, it appears the majority of climbers take a line just right of the bolt line. p3 was awesome, some delicate climbing around the arete. p3 is well worth it! Rap easily with 1 60m rope.
Apr 9, 2007
[Hide Comment] When asked I tell people that this is my favorite climb at Diablo. Its a great way to warm up with an easy, thought provoking first pitch, and with the second and third pitches continuing on intricate, exposed and increasingly spectacular rock. If you're fast it can be done in an hour round trip. Please give Josh Smith credit for establishing the route with Walt and I.
Nov 24, 2007
[Hide Comment] This really is a must do at Diablo. If you climb at this level or above you will have a great time. The third pitch is one of the most amazing and technical 5.11's I've ever been on. The exposure when leading the 3rd pitch is surreal.
Mar 17, 2008
[Hide Comment] This route kicks ass. Looks broken, but was surprisingly clean. P2 holds the crux, but it eases off after that. P3 was really great with fun movement and great exposure the entire way. Thanks to all involved in putting this one up!
Sep 1, 2008
[Hide Comment] I think this is probably the coolest route Rick/Josh/Me ever put up. Well, me anyway. Rick and Josh are a bit more prolific, especially since they actually live near Diablo and still climb outside of the gym...unlike yours truly.
The rock was *really* bad when we started working on it, though. You have no idea. I think Ken or someone else has a big block that we thought was solid with a *bolt in it* that fell off the route when we were still cleaning!
Jan 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] 4 stars for the third pitch!! Tricky onsight, with initially improbable-looking moves. Super aesthetic line, awesome exposure, and good rock quality. 3 stars for the second - some good climbing, including one great dynamic move to a huge jug (crux), but the pitch is relatively short and unsustained. The first pitch is choss. Wear helmets (leader, belayer, and bystanders) and be very careful what you pull on.
Jul 31, 2009
I'm pretty sure the PG-13 rating is on account of the somewhat loose/chossy first pitch, not for any runouts between bolts. Since it's been nearly 20 years(!) since the FA, I'd expect the first pitch to be a lot cleaner and no longer warranting a PG-13 rating. That said, Diablo basalt seems to never fully clean up so a helmet and attention is still recommended.
Feb 9, 2017
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jason. Climbed this yesterday with a party of 3, and I'd say PG-13 is no longer the case. However, there were certainly some loose blocks around, so as you said - helmet and caution advised. Top 2 pitches were awesome!
Feb 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1 is an ok 5.9, if you’re looking for an easier climb near the Solar Cave. If leading/lowering off P1, be very careful about rope length- my 60m worked but just barely!
To stay on Sun Devil on p2, from the belay immediately step right of the wide crack (Sun Devil Crack) and climb the bolted face on/just right of the arete. The obvious line straight above the belay is 7th Sun. (A couple of my friends were recently confused.)
Jan 17, 2018
Avg: 3.5 from 44
votes
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
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The rock was *really* bad when we started working on it, though. You have no idea. I think Ken or someone else has a big block that we thought was solid with a *bolt in it* that fell off the route when we were still cleaning! Jan 2, 2009
3 stars for the second - some good climbing, including one great dynamic move to a huge jug (crux), but the pitch is relatively short and unsustained.
The first pitch is choss. Wear helmets (leader, belayer, and bystanders) and be very careful what you pull on. Jul 31, 2009
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To stay on Sun Devil on p2, from the belay immediately step right of the wide crack (Sun Devil Crack) and climb the bolted face on/just right of the arete. The obvious line straight above the belay is 7th Sun. (A couple of my friends were recently confused.) Jan 17, 2018