[Hide Comment] Today, unfortunately, a key crimp broke off this route. This makes this route much, much harder again. It still seems possible, but will require LOTS of work.
Now, you'll have a complete deadpoint to a very precise 2-3 finger pocket. The crimp allowed you to hit this before the pocket.
Good luck, and let us know when someone does it again. Dec 8, 2006

[Hide Comment] What hold broke? Dec 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] When you start in the cove and move up to the big ledge, the next hold used to be a small crimp. From this crimp, you went to the two finger pocket. I'll put a picture up to show you and then I'll delete it later. Dec 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] Hmmmm...maybe the beta on this thing is in a constant state of change. Dec 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] Spent Saturday, the 23rd up here working stuff with Pete. It is possible to go to a hold 6" to the right of the right-hand handhold circled in white from the jug. After that a left hand "slap and bump" deposits one's left hand on a crimp 12" up and right from the pocket circled in green. The wetness and my own weakness prevented any further progress, but it seems a path has been found...

Pete - feel free to leave that pic up with the holds circled... Dec 26, 2006

[Hide Comment] Amazingly, I talked with my friend Mike Taylor yesterday and he said he managed to stick the complete deadpoint from the huge bucket (blue circle in pic) to the pocket (green circle). I have no idea how he did this at all, but it shows that the direct way is still (somehow) possible. He didn't manage to get the entire route, just that one move, so... the "new" first ascent of the direct route is still up for grabs. Dec 29, 2006

[Hide Comment] I was working this cave yesterday and I was able to complete the route by detouring right to a flake (white circle in picture). It was harder than the original but not by a lot. I was also able to stick the dead point to the pocket a couple times. I believe the crux of the direct route is not going to be the move to the pocket, but the move after. Good Luck! Mar 30, 2007

[Hide Comment] Mike Taylor sent it on Saturday with the deadpoint to pocket deal. It was an awesome send and he was very happy with it. May 14, 2007

[Hide Comment] For sure the coolest problem in the park. Those crimpers and pocket will reach out and bite you if you don't bite them first. May 23, 2008

[Hide Comment] I think there can be two separate routes that take you through the roof in the cave. One route goes the three finger pocket after the main ledge (very big deadpoint) and then exits on the left side of the arete on the top-out section. The other goes right to a sharp flake and then works out to the right side of the arete on the top-out section. That may confuse things more, but that is what I got out of it. I put pictures up showing the two ways. Jun 26, 2008

[Hide Comment] video of this problem (both variations)
youtube.com/watch?v=QnoqyG_… Jun 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] Enjoyed the video, nice work. Jul 14, 2009

[Hide Comment] its pretty fun to do the "left variation" but use the "right variation" ending pretty sweet Aug 17, 2009

[Hide Comment] Love this problem. This and Calm Like a Bomb are the best in the park. Apr 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] With the caveat that it was almost 20 years ago (how can that be??!!), the hold I refer to in my description is not circled and just right of the white circle. Once the small block came out it was a pretty good hold. Right hand. I don’t remember using the white circle for anything other than a quick intermediate for my left. From there pretty much straight up. Felt V6.

I’m glad you guys are finding a bunch of variations to this line, as it’s a cool overhanging wall. But, as I mentioned in my previous comment, they should all be variations of the single route than stand-alone routes themselves. Jun 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] I agree with Jay. Once a "feature" or "line" has been climbed, creating new rules does not create a new feature or line. At best this trend of circling holds, determining which are available and/or prescribing a particular sequence in which they must be used, creates a variation or eliminate, and not a new route or problem. Once we start discussing what's "on" on a hold by hold basis we've left the realm of new ascents, and (perhaps justifiably in some circumstances) brought the outdoors in.

This has been a building trend in Wisconsin climbing, especially bouldering, (though one doesn't need to look further than Balanced Rock Wall for roped examples) for a long time. The head-shaking response from those of us that see these modern "first ascents" as little more than a variation we might have done for fun and not given a second thought to, mostly goes on silently (though sometimes sarcastically or satirically). I'm not sure what exactly about The Hangover broke the camel's proverbial back, but it did. It should come down and be re-added here as a comment. Jun 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] This is a link to the right variation to this line dubbed The Hangover V8. instagram.com/p/Bj0KgXLDLfy… Jun 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] I would think The Hangover deserves its own page.. it looks like it has some of the sickest moves in the park. Why not make the information easier to find? May 23, 2020