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Routes in Pavilion Block Bouldering

Type: Boulder
FA: Knower, 1999
Page Views: 3,723 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

About 100 yards east of Calm, The Overhang can be found in a leaf-filled corridor. Start sitting at the bottom of the steepest part of the corridor and climb directly out tiered roofs. The right wall is most definitely off.

The Overhang was attempted for years until a small block was pulled off with hand pressure. The removal of this block created a hold and allowed this problem to go. For a while, the block still sat at the base, and it was possible to put the block back in, thereby making the problem much, much harder. It was sort of like two for the price of one. These days, the block is long gone.

This is a classic problem on good stone with a worthwhile top out. When climbing on this, you almost forget you're at High Cliff.

Protection

Pads
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
Today, unfortunately, a key crimp broke off this route. This makes this route much, much harder again. It still seems possible, but will require LOTS of work.
Now, you'll have a complete deadpoint to a very precise 2-3 finger pocket. The crimp allowed you to hit this before the pocket.
Good luck, and let us know when someone does it again. Dec 8, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
What hold broke? Dec 11, 2006
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
When you start in the cove and move up to the big ledge, the next hold used to be a small crimp. From this crimp, you went to the two finger pocket. I'll put a picture up to show you and then I'll delete it later. Dec 11, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Hmmmm...maybe the beta on this thing is in a constant state of change. Dec 11, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Spent Saturday, the 23rd up here working stuff with Pete. It is possible to go to a hold 6" to the right of the right-hand handhold circled in white from the jug. After that a left hand "slap and bump" deposits one's left hand on a crimp 12" up and right from the pocket circled in green. The wetness and my own weakness prevented any further progress, but it seems a path has been found...

Pete - feel free to leave that pic up with the holds circled... Dec 26, 2006
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
Amazingly, I talked with my friend Mike Taylor yesterday and he said he managed to stick the complete deadpoint from the huge bucket (blue circle in pic) to the pocket (green circle). I have no idea how he did this at all, but it shows that the direct way is still (somehow) possible. He didn't manage to get the entire route, just that one move, so... the "new" first ascent of the direct route is still up for grabs. Dec 29, 2006
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
I was working this cave yesterday and I was able to complete the route by detouring right to a flake (white circle in picture). It was harder than the original but not by a lot. I was also able to stick the dead point to the pocket a couple times. I believe the crux of the direct route is not going to be the move to the pocket, but the move after. Good Luck! Mar 30, 2007
Leveille
Appleton, WI
Leveille   Appleton, WI
Mike Taylor sent it on Saturday with the deadpoint to pocket deal. It was an awesome send and he was very happy with it. May 14, 2007
Seth Carlson
Wausau, Wisconsin
V5-6
Seth Carlson   Wausau, Wisconsin
V5-6
For sure the coolest problem in the park. Those crimpers and pocket will reach out and bite you if you don't bite them first. May 23, 2008
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
I think there can be two separate routes that take you through the roof in the cave. One route goes the three finger pocket after the main ledge (very big deadpoint) and then exits on the left side of the arete on the top-out section. The other goes right to a sharp flake and then works out to the right side of the arete on the top-out section. That may confuse things more, but that is what I got out of it. I put pictures up showing the two ways. Jun 26, 2008
Brooks-C
Portland, OR
 
Brooks-C   Portland, OR
 
video of this problem (both variations)
youtube.com/watch?v=QnoqyG_… Jun 18, 2009
Balza7891
Appleton, WI
Balza7891   Appleton, WI
Enjoyed the video, nice work. Jul 14, 2009
mikeet
versailles, ky
mikeet   versailles, ky
its pretty fun to do the "left variation" but use the "right variation" ending pretty sweet Aug 17, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V6
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V6
Love this problem. This and Calm Like a Bomb are the best in the park. Apr 13, 2011
Sean Glendon
  V5
Sean Glendon  
  V5
I think the left wall should be off after you have both feet on the starting block, putting your left foot out on the left wall makes the dead point of the left variation easier for sure. No big deal though the left wall only helps a little Sep 17, 2017
Sean Glendon
  V5
Sean Glendon  
  V5
There are several variations that go direct out this roof. The eliminate variation involving the dead point to the sharp 3 finger pocket is solid v6, v7 if you don't use the left wall for feet. Feb 8, 2018
Sean Glendon
  V5
Sean Glendon  
  V5
What was the original line exactly? Look at Peters picture with the holds circled, he suggests that the original went from the jug ledge (blue circle) to the three finger pocket (green circle) by way of a crimp that has since broken, you could finish left or right from there. Is that right Jay? Did you use the hold circled in green on the first assent or did you go to the right hand flake and then to the good edge above the lip? What did you originally rate it? Jun 19, 2018
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
With the caveat that it was almost 20 years ago (how can that be??!!), the hold I refer to in my description is not circled and just right of the white circle. Once the small block came out it was a pretty good hold. Right hand. I don’t remember using the white circle for anything other than a quick intermediate for my left. From there pretty much straight up. Felt V6.

I’m glad you guys are finding a bunch of variations to this line, as it’s a cool overhanging wall. But, as I mentioned in my previous comment, they should all be variations of the single route than stand-alone routes themselves. Jun 20, 2018
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I agree with Jay. Once a "feature" or "line" has been climbed, creating new rules does not create a new feature or line. At best this trend of circling holds, determining which are available and/or prescribing a particular sequence in which they must be used, creates a variation or eliminate, and not a new route or problem. Once we start discussing what's "on" on a hold by hold basis we've left the realm of new ascents, and (perhaps justifiably in some circumstances) brought the outdoors in.

This has been a building trend in Wisconsin climbing, especially bouldering, (though one doesn't need to look further than Balanced Rock Wall for roped examples) for a long time. The head-shaking response from those of us that see these modern "first ascents" as little more than a variation we might have done for fun and not given a second thought to, mostly goes on silently (though sometimes sarcastically or satirically). I'm not sure what exactly about The Hangover broke the camel's proverbial back, but it did. It should come down and be re-added here as a comment. Jun 20, 2018
Sean Glendon
  V5
Sean Glendon  
  V5
I managed to climb this via Ben's line today despite somewhat wet conditions. Ben's line is the Overhang right excluding the left hand crimp and going right to the good edge above the lip. I believe the overhang right is Jays original line and this line is the same with bad beta. That said its a cool eliminate variation and it's hard! The toe hook beta turned out to be the way to go. Getting the toe hook up and locked in was the crux for me. I'd say V8 is about right for this variation. Jun 20, 2018
Ben Strobel
  V5
Ben Strobel  
  V5
This is a link to the right variation to this line dubbed The Hangover V8. instagram.com/p/Bj0KgXLDLfy… Jun 20, 2018

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