Establish a belay on the right side of the large alcove above Something Interesting. From the obvious left-facing corner, hand traverse out to the hanging arete (hand-sized cams for protection are recommended, however pumpy they may be to place). Pull the lip in an interesting mantle move, and head up to easier ground.
The pitch has been graded everywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10a. Do it and decide for yourself! Or do it without regard to the grade, and enjoy the aesthetic pleasure of just being ... out there.
Location
Proceed to the base of the Mac Wall; look up. That's "it".
Protection
Mostly hand-sized cams, to a #3. Double ropes may make the route considerably more pleasant for your second.
A camera, for the belayer, is also a good idea (even better, a third party to take pictures).
[Hide Comment] I whole-heartedly agree. For 10 feet of actual climbing and a photo op that's become a Gunks cliche, I don't think it's entirely worth the approach.
Aug 29, 2009
[Hide Comment] I definitely disagree with the above posts. Something Interesting or Three Pines are great approaches and worth climbing in their own right, regardless of their grade. That ledge is awesome just to hangout on and enjoy the party. The Dangler is a great fun way to finish off those climbs even if you forget your camera.
Sep 25, 2009
[Hide Comment] Good Gear, Fun moves and a great finish to Something Interesting. Now I need to go back and do it with a little more "style"!
Nov 2, 2010
[Hide Comment] Sure, it's short. Sure, the photo is a bit cliche. BUT, i loved it. Was very intimidated standing on the ledge looking out toward the point, but once i sunk that first piece and started moving i thought it was some pretty damn exciting climbing. And yes, i did get the photo to show my mum.
Jul 22, 2011
[Hide Comment] I always chuckle when I see these pics (and I've done it myself) when you can literally walk across the ledge. Whoever did this first had a keen eye for the dramatic.
Jan 10, 2017
I don't think 5.10a really describes this route. I think it's more like a V3 boulder problem where you have to place a few cams as you go. I also think it's a blast!
Apr 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] Falls on this climb are almost always from carrying too much gear and wasting too much time placing it. Given how short and pumpy the route is, it pays to carry only what you need and have a clear plan in mind before you're hanging.
Detailed gear beta: You can get two cams in from the wall before hanging (from 0.5 to 2 are possible). I only place one or two additional cams: a #3 is bombproof in the enlarged section about halfway out. You can pull the corner with just this piece if you're daring. You might swing into the wall if you fall from the very tip but not hard. That's the minimal amount to make it reasonable. I like to add a #1 cam a few feet from the tip to make it G. That's it, I strongly recommend going light and fast. You need very little gear after pulling the overhang and the climbing is easy. Maybe one or two small cams (there's also a piton)
Nov 28, 2020
Avg: 3.3 from 267
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I don't think 5.10a really describes this route. I think it's more like a V3 boulder problem where you have to place a few cams as you go. I also think it's a blast! Apr 18, 2017
Rochester, MN
youtu.be/Tq5VmhsJ5FI May 9, 2019
Detailed gear beta: You can get two cams in from the wall before hanging (from 0.5 to 2 are possible). I only place one or two additional cams: a #3 is bombproof in the enlarged section about halfway out. You can pull the corner with just this piece if you're daring. You might swing into the wall if you fall from the very tip but not hard. That's the minimal amount to make it reasonable. I like to add a #1 cam a few feet from the tip to make it G. That's it, I strongly recommend going light and fast. You need very little gear after pulling the overhang and the climbing is easy. Maybe one or two small cams (there's also a piton) Nov 28, 2020