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Routes in American Fork Twins

Rookie Party, The WI4
Type: Ice, Alpine, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,398 total, 18/month
Shared By: Leroy on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

From a belay on the right side, climb up a short low-angle section to the crux, a leftward-ascending traverse. After that, cruise WI3 for the next hundred something feet. If the Center Chute, the couloir up and slightly left of the ice is looking firm, find a line through shattered rock and traverse in. We climbed another 200' up and slightly right from the steep ice until we could make an easy traverse back left into the couloir.

Location

The climb is at the top of the middle bowl on the north aspect of the Twins - gunner's left of Pipleine, a large couloir that falls from the summit of the West Twin. If continuing up Center Chute, you will top out in the small saddle between the East and West Twins. The easiest descent is to go a couple hundred yards east to the top of the East Twin and descend north down the ridge towards Hidden Peak. This is the ascent route when Snowbird permits skiers to access the Twins through its winter permit area.

Protection

A rack of screws and maybe a pin or two if you continue higher and keep the rope out. When we climbed it in early November of 2006, it took big screws to full depth. There is and old, two-pin anchor on top of the left side of the flow at about the 200' mark. There was also solid ice right below this anchor for a screw back up and/or abalokov rap anchor.
Any poaching beta would be appreciated. It looks fun. Nice work. Jul 2, 2009
bsmoot  
Wow! I wanna do this climb. Nov 27, 2008
Leroy
Cottonwood Heights
 
Leroy   Cottonwood Heights
 
The photo on the right is near the top of the Center Chute, well above the lower water ice curtain. With this seasons low snowfall, the final ice patch up high is still visible. The angle in the upper chute where we soloed was your standard 45 to 50 degrees easy crusin'. Feb 3, 2007
Nice pictures up a nice looking climb. I had also always wondered about that chunk of ice? Was the photo on the right taken after climbing the lower ice curtain or was it climbing the curtain? What is the angle where you are soloing?
Thanks Jan 14, 2007