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Routes in High Rappel Dell Main Wall

Aid Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Baillie's Blindspot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ball Bearing T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Banana Peel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bom Bay T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Chute, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
David's Climb S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Debutante T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dulfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Empire Strikes Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gambit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gentle Persuasion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huckleberry Thin S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In The Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Chance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Word S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Nut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Looking In T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Non-Dairy Screamer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Organic Farm T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinnacle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prescott Grain and Feed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Presidente T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pucker Factor S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redpoint Mania S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Stone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sandbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savage Amusement T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seige T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Silver Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stairway to Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tail Tied Devil T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thank God T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wugit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Henry Barber, Steve Dieckhoff
Page Views: 1,056 total, 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Partially Closed. Details

Description

This is a good sporty line on the right side of the main wall. Though it has a couple bolts, don't expect anything less than heads up climbing. Look for a glue-in bolt, climb to that and prepare yourself for some cranking on okay gear. I had a purple BD cam I think sticking straight out, and I also slung the obvious flake... Move up ramp to 2nd bolt then up a flared hand crack to the belay. I am not too sure of the history with the bolts on this line. Were they there for the FA??? Just curious.

Location

Right side, main wall

Protection

Wires, tcus, set of cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Thanks for the info Jake. You could grind off that bolt, but I think making people aware of it's installation is enough. For the true experience though you can skip it! Oct 5, 2010
You can also finish up on the left hand bolted line that keeps the route a little bit harder. I think it is called Lobotomy, 5.10ish. good.

The second bolt was put up on the first ascent by David Lovejoy (aid) and the FFA was Henry Barber and Steve Dieckhoff. The glue in was added later, and Steve Dieckhoff reportedly asked that the bolt be removed (it is a 6in glue in). There also used to be a tree so you could avoid the crux, which was cut down many years ago.

But go do the route it is one of the classic lines of the Dells. Aug 8, 2009