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Routes in Lens Rock

Ain't My Gull To Whack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Arch Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flakes of Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Frame, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optic Nerve T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Spectacle, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tennis Shoe Tango T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 71 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a second pitch taking a direct line from Arch Crack to the exit of P2 of Arch Crack. It ascends a crack/groove to the left of Right Chimney and the flake system, Flakes of Glass which is also just left of Right Chimney. It provides yet another low-end moderate pitch in the area if you are so inclined. There is no mention of it in the Rossiter or Gillett guidebooks. It may have been done before, if so, no offense intended.

Ascend Arch Crack to the point where it traverse/angles left. Make an easy but somewhat runout set of moves to gain a crack system. Small wires or Aliens may help here. Continue up the groove with an interesting high step and the crack widens to hand-size. The flake system to the right merges near the finish of the pitch.

The name comes from the lack of a need for hexes, a.k.a. Gull Whackers.

Walkoff/scramble off right. A bit devious.

Location

This starts just left of Flakes of Glass and where Arch Crack angles left.

Protection

Double black Alien, singles blue through yellow Alien; 2 #1, 2 #2, 1 #3 Camalots, small-medium wires.

Photos

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