Avg: 3.6 from 75 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, & Brian Hansen - circa 1983|
|Page Views:||12,336 total · 74/month|
|Shared By:||Monty on Nov 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1: There are 3 ways to start this climb.
Option A: (5.6) Start left of the roof; scramble up a weakness (5.6) then traverse right to a bolted belay at the base of the giant roof. Not a great pitch, but it is easy and gives you an extra pitch of traversing under the giant roof.
Option B: (5.10) I have not done this, it looks scary and run out. Start by clipping 2 1/4 inchers then follow a right-arching crack until you can go straight up to the roof, 5.10x????
Option C: (5.9+) the best if you want less crack and more knobs, do the first pitch of Lady Slipper following bolts to a bolted belay about half way through the roof.
P2/3. (5.7). Assuming you chose option A for P1; climb up the clean, beautiful corner for two pitches. Both anchors are bolted
P4. (5.10). Tip toe up knobs passing a few bolts to a bolted anchor at a small stance. Some gear can be used between bolts. This is a short pitch that is easily combined with P4. If you link the 2, bring some mid-sized gear to build an anchor at the top of P4.
P5. (5.9 R) Continue up the increasingly runout face past 2 bolts.
P6. (5.7) Follow the easy, left-arching dihederal to a 1/4" bolted belay.
P7. (5.8?) Either step left then straight up from the belay, or keep going left until you want to go up.
P8 (5.?) Depending on your 5th pitch, take easy ground to the summit.
Per mountainmicah83 Morgan: walk off to the climber's right.