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Routes in Red Springs Rock

Allied Forces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Attack Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Badger's Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulder Dash S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eggs Over Sleazy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fine Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hook Line and Sinker S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mavericks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcurl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocky Road T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Dance, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Limage & Dave Melchoir
Page Views: 1,903 total · 14/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Edit]

Really good and fun route to combine in a day with Classic Corner with fun movements over somewhat run-out climbing between the bolts. The moves feel pretty so don't stress about the bolts too much!

Location [Edit]

This route is the south facing feature about 50 feet right of Classic Corner of Calico and just right of a chossy corner! Look for the four bolts up the face!

Protection [Edit]

4 Bolts to the fixed anchors at the top!

Photos

Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
edit: I'm deleting my original message because it was unnecessarily mean-spirited. I still think that adding the retro bolt inches from the original first bolt was lame but I should not have been an ass about it. It's a sport area, bolt whatever you want. Mar 16, 2008
One of the poeple who did the FA put that bolt in.

Jason Mar 16, 2008
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.8 PG13
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.8 PG13
The first time I did this route I took along a few small pieces (tcu's, a few stoppers) and did place one piece to supplement the bolts. Probably overkill, but it made me feel better. There are a few slightly suspect holds so that extra piece was reassuring. This is a fun, worthwhile climb. Oct 6, 2009
Ron Graham
  5.8 PG13
Ron Graham  
  5.8 PG13
This route is tons of fun because the shared anchor with Attack Dogs lets you do tons of variations. My partner climbed the face between N.I.M.B.Y. and Attack Dogs and thought it rated about a 10b.

On N.I.M.B.Y., you can follow the chalk up to the bolts or traverse right of the chalk trail at any point to move up a grade or two in climbing challenge. Pretty cool!

Make sure you pull down and not out on the many flakes along the chalk trail. There are some stress fractures that suggest some of the flakes might break if torqued outward. We had nothing break on us while pulling downward on them. Mar 23, 2010
Yes, I'm the "donk" (whatever the fuck that is) who did "the shit job" of retro-bolting the route that I put up free stance drilling from the ground up. Prior to adding this bolt, climbers had to crank on and step on some hollow sounding holds and make a 5.6-7 (?) move to clip the first bolt. Granted, having 2 bolts 12" apart is ugly, but if some newby (not some BAD-ASS like Aaron S) were to fall before making that first clip and take a 30 ft grounder, that would suck. And for this reason, I made the route safer for the bewildered herd (again, not for the BAD-ASSES like Aaron S). Feb 6, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
So for clarification for those reading the comments above.... route is now 5 bolts to the fixed two bolt anchor. Supplemental cam placement behind a flake between 3 & 4 should you choose. Absolutely worth doing while in the area. Mar 14, 2014
Harry Ronsman
Las Vegas, NV
 
Harry Ronsman   Las Vegas, NV
 
This climb and the ones in this area are on the backside of the Coco Crag. Less than 5 minutes and an easy scramble.
This climb:
36.14629, -115.42280 Sep 7, 2014
JFYI we went to climb this pitch and discovered two owls sitting on a nest with 3 eggs. We bailed on the climb to let the owls have their space. Might stay off the climb for a while. Feb 25, 2018

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