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Routes in Church Fork Wall

Blastoid Variant S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bohemian Crystal S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crystal Clear S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dark Crystal, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fist Full of Crystals S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
For A Few Crystals More S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Like Sedona, Like Windwalker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: James Garrett, Thomas Etzler
Page Views: 1,282 total · 9/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

There are two lines near the SE corner of Church Fork Wall. Bohemian Crystal is the right bolted line. A route that stands out as the one to repeat over and over again. It is worth the nice hike anyway.

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos

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With all the additional (I imagine to be more recent) activity on this wall, I suppose things can seem or remain confusing. Bohemian Crystal is the original line on the crag and as it follows the natural weaknesses, it is a bit of a wavering line... So with the unreported additions ( now 5 or 6 routes on the wall, it is even more confusing. But I like BC alot, and at 10a, it is undoubtedly the easiest route up there. It is a favorite of mine and it must be getting traffic as it seemed very clean, yet still very positive and not greasy. If you are clipping Glue In Waves, then you are climbing BC.

I went up there to originally replace the 20+ year old stacked washer chain anchor at the top of the route and top of the crag with glue in ss waves. And ended up adding a few glue ins replacing the 5 pieces on route as well. We also added one a the very start (eliminating a 30 foot run out to the first bolt) and adding one at the very top lessening greatly and improving the safety factor of this very cool line. I like it now more than i ever did...and the Fall colors up there are incredible.

What baffled me, however, is that the top of the crag had 8 (?!!!!) bolts scattered around the top....BC is the only route that climbs to the very top of the crag... I never installed bolts on top myself to equip BC, Except for the two-bolt belay just over the lip. Apparently, some of these new equippers have never heard of these really cool clean anchoring devices called Camalots ( there are MANY solid cracks and placement opportunities on top). Don't get me wrong, some of the additions look like tough challenging routes and well done and worthy routes....
Some of the topside bolts were deemed unuseable by someone and were simply hammered flat against the rock. I have seen this done before and I don't understand the practice at all. If you choose to chop bolts or retrofit w better equipment (the latter a noble cause), please consider either removing the bolt completely or patching it. This should be standard practice....and replacing a stud or sleeve bolt with the same is basically senseless, either with a 1/2" or better with a glue in might be considered the new standard.
I replace a few other 5 pieces with SS glue ins, though not all, as I felt that many of these bolts were still very safe and have many many more years to serve us climbers:). My original 3/8" x 4" 5 piece Rawls were for the most part in excellent condition. I pulled and patched a number of the worst looking top anchors ( still not quite sure why they were even placed and by who?....but I left 3 of the better looking ones as they were.
Thanks for the continued interest in this crag....what a beautiful spot in the Wasatch! Oct 8, 2015
Jerome Sharpe
Wanship, UT
Jerome Sharpe   Wanship, UT
James--did you ever come up with a real concensus rating for CC? I thought it was CONSIDERABLY harder than 10b, especially the first 30 feet or so, curious as to your honest opinion. In any event, fun route in a pretty shady place, thanks for your efforts there. Jul 15, 2013
Neuro Deficits on the Grandeur Slander Wall is straight west and around the corner from Bohemian Crystal on another (the very next one to the west) crag. Crystal Clear is not in the book, only BC on the Church Fork Crag is in the Ruckman Guide. CC is definitely chossier and harder than 5.10b, but I think BC is spot on for the grade as listed in the book. Other routes I put up on the opposite wall (to the east) have never been reported, but I accept the responsibility of putting up these other truly filthy routes worthy for only true choss masters. BC, IMO, stands out as the one to repeat over and over again. It is worth the nice hike anyway.
Thanks for your comments! Feb 13, 2008
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
You know James, the book called CC a 5.10b, but I do remember thinking it felt a little harder than that. I need to go back up there and climb BC and re-climb CC.
Now James, do you know where I can find that 5.11 that's suppose to be up around this area? I'd like to jump on that if I'm going back up there. I've looked around a little for it, but have yet to locate it... Nov 20, 2007
Wow, I am surprised you guys like Crystal Clear better than Bohemian Crystal! Anyway, I entered CC on this web page to clear up the confusion.....sorry about the pun. I have always liked repeating Bohemian Crystal and I think it has cleaned up quite a bit since I first climbed it. CC? Well, I just guesstimated a rating? Isn't it harder than 5.10b Trisnuty? I will leave it up to you guys to rate it properly.
Thanks. May 7, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
If we're talkin about the left most climb of the two routes?? Then I'd say it's at least .10b. May 3, 2007

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