[Hide Comment] Crux is getting off the ledge. the move straight up from the anchor is very boulder problem-ish. I've seen many people get stuck on it. One move and your on the street though. Jan 31, 2007

[Hide Comment] The start of this route is certainly not 5.8 anymore. From what I've been told, the soil on the ledge has eroded, making it much more difficult to reach the jugs. I started the route about 5 - 10 feet right of the anchors, and then had to make a scary unprotected traverse into the first bolt risking a big factor 2 onto the anchor. The party in front of us (with climbers that normally onsight 5.10 trad climbs) had to put a sling on the anchor and step in it just to get off the ground.

I'm fine calling it 5.8 just to look tough and respect history, but in all honesty, the start is 5.10 R.

Oh yeah ... Pitch 2 has one gear placement and no bolts. The climbing is easier, but it's still R rated. Nov 20, 2015

[Hide Comment] Arch... I'll tell ya, I kind of agree. Not sure about the erosion, but I do know last time I was on it, I used your start right traverse left to the 1st bolt. Before you ask to up this rating to a 10, might I suggest you put in a TR lap of something classic like Amazon Woman at 10a/b. Still that direct start might check in around the 10's, I didn't fool with it enough to say for sure. Nov 30, 2015

[Hide Comment] I've TRed Amazon Woman. Haven't let it yet. I think the start of Bourbon is harder than any move on Amazon! I've led El Tesoro and the start of Bourbon is definitely harder than any move on that route! Nov 30, 2015

[Hide Comment] So your comfortable at the grade in the area. Nice. I could be wrong, as I theorize, that traverse up to the 1st bolt could be how the route went up to start with. Further, key holds on the direct start could have been broken? Ultimately, I don't think this warrants an upgrade. Perhaps an alternate start rating, somewhat like what some consider looking at Crusin' for a Brusin. Good discussion! Dec 7, 2015

[Hide Comment] This route was put up by Greg Schooley and Bernie Wire 1978. Jan 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] Wow, did know this site existed. Bernie is right, I did the first ascent of Bourbon Street in 1978. I did a roped solo. Was Just trying out this technique and choose this line. Feb 17, 2016

[Hide Comment] Greg I remember having you on belay Bourbon Street? Remember the second pitch when I went up that large flaring crack with no place protection and traversed into to far and got stuck... It was a day I'll never forget! Good times! Dec 1, 2016

[Hide Comment] Nice... I lead that 2nd pitch on my first pass, and thought I was gonna lose a shoe at a few spots. Terrible gear too. Dec 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] If you traverse in from about 10 ft right of the bolts then there is nothing harder than 5.8 on this route. The whole thing is easily linked as one pitch if you sling the bolts long! If you place a cam at the start of the crack, Sling it long and flip your rope over the top to cut down drag. Then don’t get in the chimney. Just walk up the ramp beside it which is prob 5.6! As Herndon mentioned you can take the face out right of the chimney. There is a great slot for gear before pulling the 5.8 face moves. Great exposure. Fun intro to runout climbing!

Great to read comments from the FA! Very cool to see! Oct 26, 2017

[Hide Comment] Probably groveled the cheese grater squeeze once or twice and then discovered the joy of the headwall escape and never went in there again. Nice slot for a nut out there too. Jul 9, 2019

[Hide Comment] We climbed this in about 1983 and I remember it only being rated 5.7 in the guidebook. I'd love to check the old guidebook but gave it away when I moved out of Texas.

The difficultly on slab can change due to temperature, according to Duane Raleigh. We were attempting a "5.9" slab when it was almost 90 degrees. I was a 5.11 slab climber at the time, and could hardly get off the ground. We ran into Duane in the parking lot and told him the grade was really sandbagged. He told us to try it when it was cooler.

We got on it the next morning when it was only 60 and didn't have any problem climbing it.

So perhaps the suggestion of a 5.10 grade could have temperature as a factor. Mar 13, 2022

[Hide Comment] The first move off the ledge on the first pitch is a lot more difficult, pushing 5.11, but it's just a couple of moves at ground level. I jumped for the holds last time I did this route . Thirty years ago the ledge was higher and you could reach those holds, but the start was still the crux. The "ground" now is at least a foot lower, maybe two feet lower. You can tell how high the dirt ledge used to be by the stain left on the rock. Someone could haul a large rock/boulder up to the ledge and landscape it in to return the route to its former grade so you don't have to traverse in and don't have or jump for holds. Doubt anyone would object to restoring the route to its original condition. Jul 2, 2023