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Routes in Snakes Head / S Wall

Baptism T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Big Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Geek Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
L.S.A.T S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaning Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moose Bite TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moose Head T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Pizza Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rowins Roof TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
S-Wall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Snakes Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Today is a Good Day to Die T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 458 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

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Runout and bold climbing, this is a baptism for climbing at Quartz. Crux is turning the bulge in the 2nd pitch.


Climb the waterstreak and crack right of S-Wall.


Stoppers, and cams to up to #4. No anchor. #3 and #4 cam for mid anchor.


- No Photos -
FA: Duane Raleigh and Terry Andrews - Tony has had it wrong in his guidebook. This is the only FA that Duane and I ever did together. Jun 10, 2010
Not sure how that happened, sorry Terry. Jan 10, 2012
This is actually a great route. You can either start at the base and do the runout water streak to the crack, or traverse in from the right. The water streak is 5.8-5.9 or so, but zero pro.

Right where the crack splits and dies out on the second pitch, you can put in two solid nuts, or small cams. The crux is the stepping up with the pro at your feet and then a reach left, where you have to lean left and then match hands. From there it is a romp to the top.

I liked this route and did it all of the time. So it can't be that bad, right? Jan 17, 2016

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