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Routes in Snakes Head / S Wall

Baptism T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Big Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Geek Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
L.S.A.T S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaning Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moose Bite TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moose Head T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Pizza Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rowins Roof TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
S-Wall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Snakes Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Today is a Good Day to Die T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,142 total, 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006
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Description

The roof is the crux, moving on smooth rock out and into a layback.

Location

Climb the Dihedral on the left side of S-Wall next to the Snakeshead.

Protection

#2 to #5 Camalots, no anchor.

Photos

Herndon
 
Herndon  
 
I've heard that there is a cam placement on the upper side of the crack beneath the crux. The crux is a sort of chimney/smear that isn't as hard as it looks. We didn't have big pro back in the day, so this route was a solo. Not a beginner's route.

I agree that this route is scary, though. You need to be pretty solid or you will end up having to downclimb. Serious route. Jan 17, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 X
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 X
Guide Book claims a #5 protects crux/roof but alas it does not so BEWARE.

So this route marks my first down climb... Words can't explain how bad this sucked. Route follows a large crack underneath the Snakes Head in a dihedral. First solid piece of pro is ~50 feet up, think it was a #2 then the dihedral just opens up to a large offwidth crack. Up another 50-60 feet is the roof and the crux. So here I am ~100-110 feet up with one piece 50-60 feet below me, and the #5 not fitting anywhere. Spent a few minutes looking to place anything from the #5 to a micro nut and there is nothing... Two choices #1 try to traverse under the cruxy roof with a slip being a 100 footer deck job or #2 Down climb... arrrg.

I am not sure a #6 would protect the roof here either... I am thinking a Big Bro or a Valley Giant #12 is needed. Apr 24, 2015
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
  5.8 R
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
  5.8 R
A number 6 cam will make the crux much easier to protect. The number five requires a lot of effort to place and is almost tipped out where you want protection the most. Sep 16, 2012