Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Molly Higgins & Larry Bruce, May 1976, P1 & 2 Eric Bjornstand & Jimmy Dunn, early 1970s
Page Views: 11,422 total · 67/month
Shared By: Cole Chilton on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is on the south side of the canyon right off the road and follows a very thin line that winds up the extremely steep and sheer face of Anasazi Wall. This route isn't very well documented but still seems to attract a lot of attention. Artist Tears has been hammered on considerably, and the already large pin scars on the route have been growing larger with each year. Regardless, the climb is still magnificent and will hopefully go clean soon.

P1. The first pitch is considered to be the crux. I managed to hook through the pin holes and nutted through most of the remainder of the pitch only love tapping two nuts to reach the belay.

P2. Unfortunately, the second pitch was much harder to maintain a clean accent, and I ended up doing more hamering than I wanted to. With the advent of Splitter Cams, this pitch, and possibly the whole climb, will go completely clean.

P3.

Kudos to the party that manages to do so!!! This is one of the sheerest walls out there!

P.S. The descent is a nightmare to find. We never did find the right way down, so I won't put anybody else through that misery and keep our line of descent private.

Location

On the Anasazi Buttress betwen Negro Bill & Short canyons.

Protection

Cams, Splitter Cams, fixed bolts, drilled angles.

Getting There

Artist Tears is located about 1.5 miles out of Moab along the River Road heading east to Castle Valley and can be found on the south (shady) side of the road. The climb accends the sheerest face in that vicinity.

Photos