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Routes in Wavebreak Wall

Jagged Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Break T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 42 total, 0/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Surf up jugs in and around a winding crack to a good rest midway up the route. Choose between the left variation that climbs past a bolt through a reachier face or follow the flake system to the right. Either way, a short and sweet crux awaits as the routes diverge. An additional crux rewards those choosing the bolted line, which protects a continuance of the jug haul from the start. Delightful!

Location

A winding crack slithers up the overhanging east face of the Wavebreak Wall, just a few feet from the Jagged Edge arete. Rappel from the top or walk off/downclimb very carefully to the north.

Protection

Standard rack. RPs or brass essential, one quickdraw for the bolt. The anchors can be shared with Jagged Edge (5.8). One is a rusty old buttonhead. The webbing was pretty old, so we added to it. I have doubts about the R rating from the Ruckman guide, but I have yet to lead it, so I can't disagree. It looks like it would sew up easily enough, but the pump factor would greatly increase due to the overhanging nature of the route.

Photos

Stevie Nacho   Utah
I didn't think there was any loose rock on this. I do agree that the going straight up through the bolt seems contrived. Fun May 3, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
Another good route that could be better without the stretch of loose rock. Some very fun moves near the bolt and the finish is great. This anchor could use a replacement. I also believe that this route could sew up. The Straight up variation seemed contrived. Maybe just a way to clip a bolt to feel safer. May 11, 2007