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Routes in Wavebreak Wall

Jagged Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Break T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brian, Vicki and Jonathan Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Just as the name suggests, Jagged Edge climbs a narrow face of rock squeezed between two aretes, lightly seasoned with sections of sharp quartzite. This is heady for a 5.8 lead, mostly due to the shallow, thin and/or irregular placements. With a little creativity, this does not have to be runout. There are ample rests along the route and good feet will get you through the thin crack or crimps crux on the right side of the most vertical section near the top. Fun route and a great warmup for Wave Break (5.11a R) next door.

Location

If the Wavebreak Wall were a book on a shelf, Jagged Edge would climb the spine. Rappel from the top of Wave Break (5.11a R) or walk off/downclimb very carefully to the north.

Protection

Standard rack and a quickdraw for the lone piton mid-route. I used small brass to a #3 Camalot. There are anchors for Wave Break (5.11a R) at the top that can be shared. One is a rusty old buttonhead. The webbing was pretty old, so we added to it.

Photos

Stevie Nacho   Utah
My favorite 5.8 in Big Cottonwood Canyon! If you bring stoppers and some small brassies, the route protects nicely. Also bring some small to medium cams if you want. This would be an ultra-classic if it were longer. May 3, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+ PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+ PG13
Great line with some great air, but as Ryan said it may not be for the 5.8 leader. I remember at the crux thinking, how good was my last piece because I didn't like the pieces at the crux. Good rock generally. May 11, 2007