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Bunny
5.5,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 482
votes
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer, 1955
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
Description
P1: Climb up the corner to a small roof split by a thin crack. Step left and move up (5.4 crux) or pull the roof directly (5.6, alternate "Bunny's Roof" or "Bunny Direct"). Continue up the line of most pleasant resistance passing a piton and many big holds to a set of bolts just below the clifftop, which allow for a lower-off with a 60m rope. This anchor also serves Fancy Idiot, so make sure not to toprope through the chains.
Location
At the Uberfall; start 10 feet left of Retribution at a crack in a right-facing corner / open book.
[Hide Comment] If you want to TR Retribution, you can lead Bunny, and veer to the right to get to the Retribution chains. It's no more than 5.5 this way.
May 10, 2007
[Hide Comment] Most of the climb is 5.3, except for the opening moves, and the small overhang. Excellent protection. Really good for refining your speed climbing skills.
Oct 15, 2007
[Hide Comment] The climb is only 5.6 if you surmount the first roof direct. The actual rating is 5.4 and is achieved by following the original route that traverses left for a few feet, then back right over the hang.
Apr 2, 2008
[Hide Comment] I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.
Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing...
Apr 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] The opening 25 feet has a few interesting technical moves. It's not a gimme. The bulge/roof is definitely in the 5.6 range. I find it easy to pull, but once you're upright the hands vanish and you end up feeling a bit uneasy as you slowly move your feet up on smeary holds and find a reachy hand on the wall to stabilize yourself.
Mar 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot. One 60m rope gets you back down to the ground fine.
Apr 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] A great climb for a new leader (roof or walk around the roof). Lots of gear, great stances, no route finding, rings and slings on the tree. To me, this is a great little climb.
Oct 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] Nice easy climb, though there was a runout section after the roof and before the first tree (optional belay/rappel). Jugs abound, but there were a few surprisingly committing moves to get to a jug that's just out of reach. I did the 5.4 variation and stopped at the first tree (I was climbing by headlamp in the dark and running out of draws..).
Edit: I climbed this again, and didn't find a real runout this time- Maybe I looked more carefully, or it wasn't as dark out, not sure. Just be sure to utilize whatever placements you find after the roof. Tricams will serve you well.
Sep 23, 2014
[Hide Comment] I thought it was an easy, fun route. We did the variation to the left of the roof, and it's no more than 5.4 that way, but still fun. I would do it again and try the roof line.
Oct 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] > My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot.
NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR)
Mar 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] From the new bolted station, our single 70m got us to the ground with a few feet of rope to spare. (Obviously, be careful pitching rope onto the carriage road; it was dead the day we climbed.)
Nov 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] We climbed this next to a local the other day and he wondered whether we were going to HOP on the route? Hop on ya'll...peeps be so nice in NY
Jun 11, 2018
[Hide Comment] Fun bit of climbing history: along with Fancy Idiot next door, this may have been the first route in the region with an all-women FA party (Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer, 1955).
Jul 23, 2019
[Hide Comment] Bunny Direct is a great first 5.6. The 5.6 section is short and well-protected. Felt pretty secure with a bomber lock but ymmv. My follow felt it insecure for him
Mar 26, 2020
[Hide Comment] Probably my favorite single pitch in the Gunks (as I am not exactly a 5.10 leader) due to its steepness and length. It’s only 5.4 for the first 20’ or so. After that it’s around 5.3 the whole way. Plenty of holds, plenty of pro (I placed about 10 pieces but you could run it out more). The roof protects well and is a fairly easy move if you want to take a swing at that and make it 5.6. Don’t know that I’d recommend it as a first lead, but it’s an easier moderate.
Sep 3, 2022
[Hide Comment] Tricky, well protected dihedral moves in the first half. Runout, easier jug hauling in the second half. The roof variation is well protected and worth doing
Jan 29, 2023
Avg: 2.6 from 482
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Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing... Apr 7, 2011
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Edit: I climbed this again, and didn't find a real runout this time- Maybe I looked more carefully, or it wasn't as dark out, not sure. Just be sure to utilize whatever placements you find after the roof. Tricams will serve you well. Sep 23, 2014
NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR) Mar 25, 2016
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