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Routes in (03) The Franks

Dark Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Entertaining Mike Tyson S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sick Man S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Dave Pegg (bolted by Lance Hadfield)
Page Views: 987 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is one of the better hard routes at Palomas, due to the fact that it actually has holds, and is not just a 60 degree overhanging bolted crack.

This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.

This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.

Location

This route can be difficult to find since the number of bolted routes on this section of cliff has changed since the last guidebook edition. The route is immediately right of "Crash test Dummies" which is an 11d bolted hand crack. EMT is also the first really steep route after a short section of 3 or so mostly vertical routes.

Protection

Bolts, Stick clip

Photos

MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
If moving off the flared finger-lock, tape is advised on the pinky and ring finger.... Jul 25, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13b
Only one two finger pocket on the route and the pull off of it is not that difficult, it kind of locks on your finger so tape is a good idea. The crux involves pulling off the terrible flared finger lock one move higher, or catching the edge as you go again off of the pocket. The bear hugging section is quite slappy with bad feet. Good physical climbing.

A double shoulder length runner can be threaded through some pods at the base of the route to the right and clipped to keep the rope out of the climbers way. Apr 27, 2009