Avg: 3.1 from 33 votes
|FA:||Mark Sprague, 1998|
|Page Views:||5,034 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Jen Lloyd on Nov 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Above the two eyebolt belay anchor, climb up the steep wall on positive holds to a long move up and right to a good rail. WAIT! The rail fell off! The new beta for this section apparently involves a V6/7 boulder problem, making this formerly 5.12d route more like 13a. I'll have to get out there and try it soon to give a better description. (Feel free to comment if you've been on this route post-broken-hold and have something to add.) After the new boulder problem, establish a good left kneebar for a rest, then continue up the overhanging corner/ramp through a series of marginal kneebars and contorted body positions. Perch on a small ledge above this system for a bit of a rest, then pump through the last steep section on good holds to clip the last bolt of Orangahang, then the anchor.