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Broken Arete

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
FA: John Burcham/Seth Dyer
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall

Description

This line takes you above the Lower Religion Wall. It starts off on the left side of the obvious right facing corner above Poop Tube. The start gets your heart going a bit when you start plugging finger size cams into a chunk of dubious Sedona sandstone. Climb 10 or 15 feet or so and reach around the arete to the right for a good hold. Once you've turned the corner on the arete, enjoy great jamming till you get to the wonderful belay ledge. Savour the view.... Great fun all the way.

Location

Start from the double bolt belay on the limestone ledge...to the left of the top of Poop Tube.

Protection

Many small (finger) size cams or tcu's for the start. Once you've turned the corner on the arete, it's small hands and hands to the belay....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Interesting movement and very thin
[Hide Photo] Interesting movement and very thin
Kori on Broken Arete
[Hide Photo] Kori on Broken Arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing. The position, moves and exposure will not be easily forgotten. My favorite for the grade on the Church Wall. Feb 16, 2008
bio
mesa, az
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] good rock, fun moves, great pro, nice exposure - it's all great! Jan 29, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I was a little spooked plugging cams into the splitter tips crack near the crux. I didn't really trust the rock to hold falls until I got into the corner. Great climb and awesome exposure though! Apr 5, 2010