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Routes in Purgatory

Beezlebub S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Devil Makes Three S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Devil is a Lie, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fallen Angel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Have a Drink With the Devil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meet Your Maker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mephistopheles S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Persephone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 262 total, 2/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Ultra-crimpy. This is the 2nd route from the left that begins up a slight ramp using a sidepull feature (see photos below). At the top of the ramp, the climbing gets thin and hard. The crux is powerful on small holds and bad feet. The 4th bolt is nearly impossible to clip were it's at, so I pre-hung a long draw (I heard Lee skipped it). After the crux, fun climbing leads to a huge rest (the route would be so much harder if it wasn't there, I kind of wish it wasn't). After the rest (skip a bolt in there), the top has a great 5.12 finishing sequence on sidepulls and crimps, with a "thank god" jug to clip the anchors.

Protection

Lots of bolts, 10 I think. Closed cold shut anchors.
Route has been revised once again. The first 3 bolts have now been moved. All the clips are good and the crux is well protected even though it appears runout. Jaimie took the ride a few times and ended up well above the ground. The reason the anchors were dropped is because the original set were in a large block. You still do the fun exit moves and clip from the same finish jug, just clip the lower set of anchors. And Greg you can chime in whenever you want, I was just yanking your chain. Sep 3, 2013
Jaimie if you bring up the drill and hammer ill bring up the hardware. Maybe we can fix this so you quit your bitching! Greg you should just stay out of this, you don't even climb anymore. Sep 2, 2013
jamison coin
Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.13b
jamison coin   Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.13b
It is a little f'd , I think it could maybe have some bolts moved around and it would be nice to check out the old anchors again, it really sucks clipping the new ones mid crux and its kinda scary going above. I agree with Greg about the old sequence going to the anchors being pretty classic, you almost feel like you cheated clipping those new anchors. I think I might be able to get the Canyon Custodian up there today, we'll see what he thinks. Sep 2, 2013
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Sounds all f'd up. Too bad about the anchors. One of my favorite sequences was up there... Sep 1, 2013
jamison coin
Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.13b
jamison coin   Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.13b
I broke the left hand crux hold a couple of weeks ago when I stepped on it. It was a four finger two pad slopey crimp (jug), it is now a three finger quarter pad crimp which makes the clip pretty hard and the crux throw quite a bit harder. Cronin rebolted this thing a couple years ago it used to have ten bolts it now has five. Trying to skip the crux bolt now would be insane, you might as well solo the first half of the route. The anchors have also been dropped a few feet( the old anchors were in questionable rock), which makes for a super pumpy anchor clip or run it out to the old clip jug and clip it at your balls (spicy). Awesome route, with a serious crimper crux!!! Sep 1, 2013