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Snakes Head

5.5 X, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 34 votes
FA: Ken Rose & Party
Oklahoma > Quartz Mountain > 03. Snakes Head / S Wall

Description

About as Traditional as it gets. About 100' left of S-Wall, from an alcove climb up a crack up to the big face and top out.

Location

Start 100' left of S-Wall. Top out, make the jump across and scramble over to the Head Wall anchors and rap.

Protection

None

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Seven soloists on Snake's Head (5.5X).
[Hide Photo] Seven soloists on Snake's Head (5.5X).
some okc boys making the jump after soloing the snake's head at the 2016 fall gathering
[Hide Photo] some okc boys making the jump after soloing the snake's head at the 2016 fall gathering
Solo train
[Hide Photo] Solo train
Air Time
[Hide Photo] Air Time
snakes head
[Hide Photo] snakes head
Snakes Head
[Hide Photo] Snakes Head
Fall Gathering, 2021
[Hide Photo] Fall Gathering, 2021
Working my way up Snakes Head on 5/20/17.
[Hide Photo] Working my way up Snakes Head on 5/20/17.
snakes head from the backside
[Hide Photo] snakes head from the backside
Abe and Jesse on snakes head
[Hide Photo] Abe and Jesse on snakes head

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Tower
San Francisco
  5.5 X
[Hide Comment] There are a variety of ways to get to the route but the fun of it begins on the giant ramp that is on the left side of Baldy (from the parking lot) at the very top. Jul 3, 2007
Alan See
[Hide Comment] Snake's Head is best done early in the day, before the wind picks up. Apr 5, 2011
Shelton Hatfield
 
[Hide Comment] The climbing may not be spectacular but the position and boulder hop seal the deal. Classic. Mar 1, 2014
Drew Nevius
Broken Arrow, OK
[Hide Comment] Top anchor bolts replaced with SS in Nov 2018 Nov 9, 2018
Joel Thompson
Perryton, TX
 
[Hide Comment] What are the options, if any, for getting down without gear after topping out on this? Nov 19, 2022
Grahm Hornsby
Norman, OK
[Hide Comment] Joel, with no gear at all you must jump off Snakes Head onto a boulder and then you can hike down the back side. I would suggest walking east past devils slide before turning downhill. Nov 20, 2022