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Routes in Snakes Head / S Wall

Baptism T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Big Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Geek Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
L.S.A.T S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaning Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moose Bite TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moose Head T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Pizza Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rowins Roof TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
S-Wall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Snakes Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Today is a Good Day to Die T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Duane Raleigh, Rick Thomas 1980
Page Views: 639 total, 5/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 16, 2006
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Description

Climb the first pitch of S-Wall. The climb the face left of over about 20 feet and clip the last bolt. Then climb the unprotected face on 5.10 to the top. Falls have been taken from the top. I have seen this climbed from the ground up, clipping the only bolt at (90'), skipping S-Walls first pitch, but a fall would be deadly.

Location

Same as S-Wall

Protection

Same as S-Wall

Photos

- No Photos -
Herndon  
Yeah, I took a hundred footer off of this one in 1981..or sometime around there.

The danger is hitting the big knobs on the first pitch of S wall. Those knobs have broken legs. Duane realed in armloads of slack as I was falling, and saved my bacon.

Sticky rubber made it a lot easier, because most of this route is pure slab with no real holds. Jan 17, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Duane recently wrote about Big Bite, not directly, but where else are you gonna fine a 2nd pitch with only one bolt in the 80's.

Duane talks about catching the mother of all whippers in this article. May 6, 2013
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
  5.10b X
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
  5.10b X
Bring your A plus head game for this one. Sep 16, 2012