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Routes in Wonder Bluffs

Bluewind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conniption T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gomer Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hopelessly Trapped in the Negro Vortex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pencil Neck Geek T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rings Around Your Danus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slam Dunk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tom Plumb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Long and Keith Cunning, December 1979
Page Views: 1,124 total, 8/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This great crack climb, starts two cracks right of "Slam Dunk".
There are two small caves, an upper and lower one to the left.
Climb a slightly curving thin crack to the upper (right) cave. Chimney out of the cave and jam an excellent hand crack to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2.5"

Photos

MikeP ROWCC
  5.10b
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.10b
I had a very different experience on the climb. The pro is great down low, you can see all the placements before you start climbing. Bomber aliens. Maybe a slightly awkward to place, but hey, it's Josh 10b. If you make it past the 10b moves with a piece at your waist than the 5 feet of 5.8 afterward without pro shouldn't cause you any problems.

Awesome hand crack after the cave. Apr 8, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This rig is pretty cool, but also sort of jacked up too. A thin crack start seems like all puppies and unicorns and then the hard to place pro kinda runs out and the crack above starts looking proless and sketch. This is another one I futzed around on for an eternity and used all the chalk in my bag and could not really see the moves or the pro to continue directly up the thin crack. At least not if I wanted to live.... I ended up doing a quasi horrendous move out left to gain the top of the alcove and some good hand jambs. I would say offroute, but hey, I tried the moves 67 times and never hung, so WTF? What is the deal with that thin crack? It might have well have been a RURP seam for my money. Sooze said it was casual and I was just having a "conniption". Probably true, but still, WTF??

Ok... we are now under the roof and thinking this is going to be tough! Not so! The pro there is anything on your rack and the jambs fit everyone. A few chimney moves with a hand jamb get you out of the hole and into the toothy hands to the summit. No real cruxes ahead, but plenty of jamming in the 3" and under range. Drop in 3 or 4 cams in the 3" range and you will be good to go. All bomber gear and hands but sorta pumpy to the summit. Belayed over the top with some sweet rope drag to keep you anchor less. Move down to the chains at the top of Negro Vortex to descend.

I'd go 2 1/2 stars, especially for the wall. Oct 10, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This is a proud lead for the taking. Gear is good but slightly pod like down low with good moves to the cave. #1 and/or #3 camalot protect the roof with a very toothy hand crack to the summit. Build your own anchor using #3, large nuts and stance. This is a physical lead with lots of grains. Reached the anchor with many compression marks on the back of my hands. Ouch! Nov 28, 2011
C Miller   CA  
What is the name of the crack between Slam Dunk and Conniption?

The route is called Tom Plum (5.9+). Feb 24, 2011
JoshMc
Joshua Tree
JoshMc   Joshua Tree
What is the name of the crack between Slam Dunk and Conniption? It doesn't appear to be in the Falcon guidebook but it's pretty good. I toproped it recently. The move out of the cave (left cave) is a bit reachy. 5.9ish overall I thought. Feb 24, 2011