Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson (5.12 A0), April 2001. FFA: Henry Lester, March 15, 2003
Page Views: 752 total · 5/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Brat Slamet is slabby, discontinuous, seam climbing. It is essentially a bolted boulder problem. This has great rock with unique movement. Since the second clip is difficult, most people clip the first two for the redpoint.

Location

It is located at the left end of the downhill, eastern section of the Hideout.

Protection

Four quickdraws plus 2 for the anchors. A 50 meter rope will easily get you down.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade.

I have ignored Taylor Roy's slightly inaccurate, incomplete posting of this route for 9 years. The information can be found in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" (2005). There was a time when more climbers got there info from guidebooks & this website didn't have much credibility. Times have changed, so has the great climber that this route was jokingly named after. His editorials used to slam much on the sport climbing in this canyon. I figured if he saw this route, he would say it should be a highball boulder problem, done with a good pad. I don't believe anyone has done it this way. It is a short route with a bit of narrow flat spot at the base. A 30 meter (100 ft.) long rope is more than long enough to descend. Jun 8, 2015
Pinklebear  
 
Fun route. A good wire brushing would help as I don't think it gets done much. Power laybacking on tips seams! Short but powerful. Mar 21, 2018