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Tom Thumb
5.11 PG13,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 7
votes
FA: Jack Hauck, David Lovejoy, 1971 FFA (entire route): Jim Waugh, 1979
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Prescott Area
> Granite Mountain
> Middle Section
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Description
If you are looking at Green Savior, look just left for a fairly conspicuous tower. On the left side of the tower is a small roof with a fist crack out the left side.
Pitch 1, 5th class: Climb up fractured, broken rock (kind of spooky) to a belay 15’ below the roof.
Pitch 2, 5.11-: A classic crack climbing pitch with an off size roof. Climb up rattly rock to roof. Plug some decent gear in and climb out and left. The crack actually gets smaller as you climb and some very nice hand jams await just after the crux. The crack will eventually end in fingers towards the top of it. Rig a gnarly belay.
Pitch 3, 5.11: The bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2013. Reported to be anywhere between 5.10+ to a whole grade harder. Techy climbing leads left the a seam feature. Climb that until you can weave back right along a path of least resistance.
Pitch 4: 50’ of OW.
Location
Left side Middle section
Protection
Standard rack of doubles to #4, wires, runners.
[Hide Photo] Heather Hayes powers into the crux of Tom's Thumb 2nd pitch (yes, it is wide- note the helmet she had to leave behind to fit deep enough to jam!)
[Hide Photo] Tom Thumb p3 Slight deviAtion from the topo’s line seemed the most natural . A bit confusing.
[Hide Photo] Zach Harrison getting into the crux on pitch 3 (rebolted) (Photo by Zach King)
I suggest Green Savior Direct -> Tom's Thumb -> C.W.Hicks.
A good route, but if you are up to the grade I would reccommend Coatimundi Whiteout over this climb. Dec 29, 2008
Aspen, CO
Flagstaff
Tempe, AZ
Flagstaff, AZ
Lander, Yeehaw!
The natural path of the line is a little different than the topo shows in my opinion. I’ll add a photo to clarify. An excellent line, and a little serious. Oct 19, 2018