Avg: 3.6 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ron Olevsky and Joy Ungritch, May 2 1985 FFA: Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, and Maura Hanning-Sims, 1995.|
|Page Views:||4,051 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Ewing on Nov 13, 2006|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
(P2) climb the hand crack up the chimney wall and follow it out onto the face at a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack, now 1.5 friend sized for a few moves until it is possible to move back right into a squeeze chimney (#3 Big Bro would have been really nice). Climb the squeeze chimney (5.9) and do some awkward OW moves onto a ledge with a decent bolt, a drilled angle and a crappy star drive. Belay here.
(P3) Bust up the overhanging dihedral on stacks to gain thin hands in the vertical corner (5.11c). The crack pinches back down to stacks before going wide again for more OW to the top of the pillar past some loose rock at the very top. Belay at 2 drilled angles.
(P4) Pull one or two moves of loose 5.6 to the summit, then downclimb back to the belay (Old anchors on top are not trustworthy).
Descend via 3 single rope raps (with a 70 meter rope) or one single rap from the top and one double rope from the pitch 2 belay)