Type: Sport
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 1,580 total · 11/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Start up a thin seam to the right of Prototype (Sugar, 5.10, is located between Prototype and Bolt Talk). Strenuous moves lead up through the seam to slightly easier climbing above. The holds get thin again at the top. Look for a rounded knob up and to the right that leads to more small holds and the anchors.

Protection

Four bolts to anchors.

Photos

Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but this one seems to be poorly bolted. Falling in the middle of the route will put you right back at the belay with a nasty fall. But it does seem to be a one move wonder, with the difficulty being at the top. Apr 21, 2007
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.11a
Bolt count in the description is off, Bolt Talk has 6 bolts and Fixe sport anchors. Matt you may be thinking of Unnatural to the right which does have only 4 bolts and could seem runoutish.

This seemed like a really good warm up with climbing that got progressively harder as you got higher on the wall. Apr 4, 2009
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these. May 4, 2009