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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 1,149 total, 9/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a thin seam to the right of Prototype (Sugar, 5.10, is located between Prototype and Bolt Talk). Strenuous moves lead up through the seam to slightly easier climbing above. The holds get thin again at the top. Look for a rounded knob up and to the right that leads to more small holds and the anchors.

Protection

Four bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these. May 4, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.11a
Bolt count in the description is off, Bolt Talk has 6 bolts and Fixe sport anchors. Matt you may be thinking of Unnatural to the right which does have only 4 bolts and could seem runoutish.

This seemed like a really good warm up with climbing that got progressively harder as you got higher on the wall. Apr 4, 2009
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but this one seems to be poorly bolted. Falling in the middle of the route will put you right back at the belay with a nasty fall. But it does seem to be a one move wonder, with the difficulty being at the top. Apr 21, 2007