Type: Sport
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 10,119 total · 66/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006 with improvements by Jonathon Stark and 1 other
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

On January 16th, 2019 a large rock fall destroyed much of Prototype/Dr. Seuss Wall, with climbs from Eight Flake to Bongo Fury now gone, including this climb. Take care climbing on limestone!

One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.

Protection

Five bolts to anchors.

Photos