Type: Sport
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 8,250 total · 56/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006 with updates from Jonathon Stark
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


156 Opinions

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Description

One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.

Protection

Five bolts to anchors.

Photos

Mancini
 
Mancini  
 
Awesome route - very powerful. Basically two or three boulder problems strung together. Big burly moves up to the first good rest. Another couple of power moves to the big hueco with a handle where you can rest before pulling the finish on a couple of crimps and a small pocket. Oct 16, 2016
Tommy Blackwell
Austin, Texas
Tommy Blackwell   Austin, Texas
youtu.be/maKA9iAckR0 Jun 29, 2017
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
can feel a bit tweaky if you're not warm yet... Feb 5, 2018
Joshua McMillan
Fayetteville, NC
  5.10a
Joshua McMillan   Fayetteville, NC
  5.10a
Fun route! I think every clip you have a jug to hold onto. Apr 9, 2018
Steven Moore
Cedar Park, TX
Steven Moore   Cedar Park, TX
Prototype died today 1-16-2019 (entire wall came off...thanks 8 flake). Pour one out for a MEGA CLASSIC. Central Texas climbing took a big hit today. 1 day ago
Patrick Talley
Houston, TX now Boulder, CO
Patrick Talley   Houston, TX now Boulder, CO
Gone...entire wall sheered off. So long old friend. 1 day ago