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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Curtis Mai
Page Views: 828 total · 6/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Bisector is immediately to the right of Eight Flake. Look for a pair of bolts that protect a bulge on the lower part of the wall. Climb over the bulge past the two bolts and head for the smaller flake that forms the top part of Eight Flake. Clip the last bolt on Eight Flake and then head towards the anchors. Easy top rope after you've led Eight Flake (if there isn't a crowd waiting in line behind you). The middle of the route would be a little run out on lead.

Protection

Two bolts down low plus one shared with Eight Flake. Anchors shared with Eight Flake and Clone Call.

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