Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,348 total · 70/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006 with updates from ErinA
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


169 Opinions

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Description

One of the most popular climbs at Reimer's Ranch. Look for a prominent, right-facing flake that goes straight up the left side of Prototype Wall, with a smaller flake above it the slants to the right. Climb past three bolts to the top of the flake (about two thirds the height of the wall), and then transition to the smaller flake above. The crux is moving between the two flakes on some thin holds. Finish at the anchors directly above Bisector. Expect to wait in line for this one.

Protection

Five bolts to anchors.

Photos

mattm
TX
mattm   TX
Flake Faces Left... Feb 7, 2012
trevor becker
  5.8
trevor becker  
  5.8
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of eight Flake 5.8:

youtube.com/watch?v=G_BRaLJ… Jan 19, 2013
Lexi J
Oregon
  5.8
Lexi J   Oregon
  5.8
Really great warm up with a fun flake to follow. Dec 9, 2015
Matt Seigel
Austin, TX
  5.8
Matt Seigel   Austin, TX
  5.8
Super fun route. All vertical. If you're climbing with people who aren't good 5.8 climbers this might not be the best route on top rope. It seems like you would have a big swing if you fall because the top rope anchors are far to the right of the start. Apr 11, 2016
chosspector
San Juans, CO
5.7
chosspector   San Juans, CO
5.7
Rusty protection bolts! Nov 27, 2016
Robert S
Driftwood, TX
Robert S   Driftwood, TX
This very popular route is no more. In January 2019, a huge section of the cliff collapsed, taking this route and several others with it. 1 day ago