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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,706 total, 65/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


139 Opinions

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Description

One of the most popular climbs at Reimer's Ranch. Look for a prominent, right-facing flake that goes straight up the left side of Prototype Wall, with a smaller flake above it the slants to the right. Climb past three bolts to the top of the flake (about two thirds the height of the wall), and then transition to the smaller flake above. The crux is moving between the two flakes on some thin holds. Finish at the anchors directly above Bisector. Expect to wait in line for this one.

Protection

Five bolts to anchors.

Photos

chosspector
San Juans, CO
5.7
chosspector   San Juans, CO
5.7
Rusty protection bolts! Nov 27, 2016
Matt Seigel
Austin, TX
  5.8
Matt Seigel   Austin, TX
  5.8
Super fun route. All vertical. If you're climbing with people who aren't good 5.8 climbers this might not be the best route on top rope. It seems like you would have a big swing if you fall because the top rope anchors are far to the right of the start. Apr 11, 2016
Lexi J
Texas
  5.8
Lexi J   Texas
  5.8
Really great warm up with a fun flake to follow. Dec 9, 2015
trevor becker
  5.8
trevor becker  
  5.8
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of eight Flake 5.8:

youtube.com/watch?v=G_BRaLJ… Jan 19, 2013
mattm
TX
mattm   TX
Flake Faces Left... Feb 7, 2012