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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Sam Lightner and Josh Gross |
| Page Views: | 1,287 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 11, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1 Start the route on the Northeast side of the tower in a small alcove that makes a great catchers mitt for falling rocks. Do a boulder problem to get into the crack then ascend, using hand jams and wrestling moves, for 180 feet to a ledge.. Its pretty soft.
P2 climb a little ways down a slab so that you can reach the left crack, then go up the crack (even softer) on some manky pro. If you maxed out on 5.10, you don't want this pitch, but its no harder than that... you just need to have a little extra power In case something important fails and your suddenly on your arms.
Its over pretty quick and your on the summit.
Rap the route... and watch for inexplicable sharp edges. We ruined a rope on the big rap and have no idea how as its a very innocuous looking descent.
P2 climb a little ways down a slab so that you can reach the left crack, then go up the crack (even softer) on some manky pro. If you maxed out on 5.10, you don't want this pitch, but its no harder than that... you just need to have a little extra power In case something important fails and your suddenly on your arms.
Its over pretty quick and your on the summit.
Rap the route... and watch for inexplicable sharp edges. We ruined a rope on the big rap and have no idea how as its a very innocuous looking descent.
Protection
Lots of hand and wide hand gear. I'd take triples or quadruples on 2.5-3.5, then a couple 4's and maybe a 5. Really small aliens, or a pin (L.A.), will help with the boulder problem start. The long pitch is really long, so plan on hand pieces at your own spacing.
The rap anchors double 1/2 inch bolts.
The rap anchors double 1/2 inch bolts.
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