Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: C. Tabor, F. Waters, 1989
Page Views: 538 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Another good low-angle line on good rock. If you are sick of pulling on pockets and want to edge a little, and have already climbed out the Emerald City area, try this climb and its neighbors. Work your way up the right side of the blunt, low-angle arete to the top, below the huge roof of the "trash compactor" rockhouse to a bolted anchor shared with Sundance. (The next bolted line to the right).

Location

In the center of this crag lies "The Trash Compactor" a large, rectangular rockhouse with a slab at the back and a huge roof above. on the left side of that slab there is an O.W. crack that goes up and then left at the top. Just left of this, on the left arete of the slab there is a bolted climb called "JuJu."

Protection

5 bolts with a optional gear placement down low.

Photos

James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10b
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10b
A good line, but a little heady. Nov 28, 2016
Crankster1 Waters
Winchester, KY
Crankster1 Waters   Winchester, KY
.5 Camalot sized cam in the horizontal down low, the routes in the trash compactor area were all hand drilled so any opportunity to use other pro was utilized. Apr 1, 2017
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Alex Zucca   Salt Lake City, UT
 
It is seriously spicy getting up to the ledge above the 2nd bolt. There's some desperate arête slapping that you could easily barn door and cheese grate your back if you fell. Then, once on the ledge the 3rd bolt is extremely high. I am 6' and barely clipped it on my tippy toes. Be solid at the grade if you plan to lead this. Jul 4, 2017