PRINT: Rock Climb The Sleeper, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

The Sleeper

5.7, Trad,

Avg: 2.4 from 41 votes
FA: unknown
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Mt Scott > Upper Mt Scott

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Start in the crack climbing up from the end of the ledge. Place a piece of protection before starting up as a fall off the ledge would be bad for both the climber and probably the belayer. The toughest moves are getting up into the crack, but there are some great holds along the crack. About 2/3 of the way up, the crack splits in two - one continues straight up, the other slants to the right. While both cracks are about the same difficulty, the one of the right is better. Layback along the crack and continue to the large ledge at the top. Walk off.

Location

From the tree and black water streak that mark Spinning Back Kick, continue down the wall past a second left facing flake to a ledge and a drop off. Rising up from the end of the ledge is a slight left leaning crack that leads to a small ledge 15 feet up.

Protection

Standard rack, anchor off trees.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kacie and I topped out

The crack gets really positive at this point.

From the starting ledge looking up

The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.

Checking out the start of The Sleeper. Foolish is the hand crack on the right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska

5.7 PG13

Really awesome route! Could be tough for a new leader. Right at the start place a #2 in the crack head high to prevent a fall into the crevasse below. Really positive layback at the top. After the #2 to start there is a spot for a #1 on the first ledge, after that smaller cams and nuts. Sep 14, 2015

Henry Holub
Altus, OK

5.7

Super-awkward start moving from the ledge into/onto a flake. Above that the climbing gets easier. working around the flake up top can be a bit challenging as well. The Oklahoma Select guidebook lists it at 5.6, but I think that first move definitely hits more 5.7. The opening move on this climb was more difficult than any of the moves on the 5.7 High Anxiety Nov 6, 2015