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Licorice Stick Ice/Mixed

M2-3, TR, Mixed, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Castlewood Cany… > Cherry Creek Falls Area

Description

Short free-standing 6-7 inch diameter pillar followed by ice filled corner. The crux is not kicking down the pillar getting into the corner. Short, fun, easy access-the downside is that it only forms up rarely (once a decade?)-it needs a snowfall followed by cold weather. As a pure rock route, it's rated in the 5.7+ to 5.9- range.

Location

Licorice Stick is a black south-facing corner toward the south end of the Grocery Store section of the west rim of Castlewood Canyon, about 80 feet north of where the approach trail hits the cliff at the large flat boulder (by Peaches & Scream). Descend via 3rd/4th class routes south (closest) or north.

Protection

TR anchors at top or corner. As a rock route, the corner crack takes cams nicely-in mixed conditions there's not much pro.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

2/15/07 12:30ish AM.
[Hide Photo] 2/15/07 12:30ish AM.
The route from the side.
[Hide Photo] The route from the side.
Lower section from the front during the best conditions (DRY).
[Hide Photo] Lower section from the front during the best conditions (DRY).
The climb from the side, seconds after Mike Carrington completes the route.
[Hide Photo] The climb from the side, seconds after Mike Carrington completes the route.
Mike Carrington finishing the first section of ice, recovering from a broken leg the right way.
[Hide Photo] Mike Carrington finishing the first section of ice, recovering from a broken leg the right way.
The crux 2/22/07 prime conditions.
[Hide Photo] The crux 2/22/07 prime conditions.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ternes
Littleton, Co
 
[Hide Comment] Have you ever actually climbed this mixed/ice climb? I would like to know if it has ever been done before. I did it today 2/13/07. It hasn't been climbed on this year as far as I can tell, because I knocked off about a foot of loose ice to get to the good stuff. BTW, as the weather stands right now this climb can only get better. Early morning (start climbing by 7, when the sun comes up) in the next few days SHOULD rock hard, and if you get there soon enough you won't have to deal with too much loose stuff. Enjoy.

P.S.: I chipped away the ice from 2 of the 3 anchors, but it was about 4 inches thick and hard. It's still a bomber anchor, but 3 would be better. Good luck. Feb 13, 2007
Ternes
Littleton, Co
 
[Hide Comment] This route is no more. Maybe we'll see it again in a few years. Hope some of you had the pleasure of climbing it. Mar 6, 2007
Tom Hanson
[Hide Comment] Back in the mid to late eighties, ice climbs formed in the canyon regularly.
One year in particular, every section of rock that exhibited vertical black streaks from water seepage had ice formed on it.
I am guessing that there were no less than a hundred ice pillars thoughout the canyon.
Licorice Stick forms more often than most. Mar 7, 2007
Ternes
Littleton, Co
 
[Hide Comment] Sweet....wish I was climbing back then...but I think I was playing with legos. Hope it happens again there are so many possibilities my mind can't handle it all! Mar 30, 2007