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Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff

Agent Orange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Flag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crankenstein T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everybodys Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fearless Freaks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
GBH S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hooligans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Loki S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slam Dancin' With The Amish T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sonic Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Pile S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz (1989)
Page Views: 5,418 total, 40/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is an excellent route! The namesake of the Sonic Youth cliff, this route climbs through a series of pockets and crimps on the lighter-colored rock just left of the waterstreak. The crux starts past the halfway point and continues through the top (endurance), which includes pulling a bulge on some small crimps. =)

This is a "must do" if you visit this area of Sandstone Quarry!

Location

This route climbs the left side of the obvious water streak up the far right (west) side of the sonic youth cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors on the upper bulge.

Photos

This route is really sustained. None of the moves are that hard, so one might be tempted to call it 11b or c. Then they punt at the 5th to last move, then the 3rd to last move, then 2nd to last move before finally sending it. Sport climbing is not bouldering. Easy moves become hard after the first 5 bolts. Great flow, cool moves, great sport route. Feb 9, 2016
mike moore
las vegas, nv
 
mike moore   las vegas, nv
 
I replaced the 4th bolt that is referred to in the previous comment. Please excuse the open hole from the old bolt. I had no epoxy to patch it. The bolt used for replacement is a 1/2" x 3 3/4" powers bolt and a Fixe hanger. I replaced it sometime in Nov., 2013. Dec 29, 2013
As of November '13, one of the bolts up high (4th or 5th?--there was at least one more on the steep part after it) was about an inch out of the hole. I hand-tightened, but it still seems pretty sketchy. Nov 23, 2013
ANP
ANP  
11 D endurance route Nov 13, 2012
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.11c
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.11c
A lot of crimps but really great feet. I loved the exciting finish! Jan 7, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
probably no move harder than .11a/b, but sustained enough to challenge you. Felt easier than Native Son and Cujo, but definitely more of a pump factor. Nov 9, 2011
Ben Lepesant
  5.11d
Ben Lepesant  
  5.11d
it's .11d in the handren guide Mar 22, 2008
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11d
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11d
I agree with Gary. It's significantly harder then Yaak Crack (5.11c/d). Jun 9, 2007
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
More like 11d unless your an endurance monster. Jan 5, 2007