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Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome

Chrome Dome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Eights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De-Nogginizer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear & Loathing II T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gonzo Dogs T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid God T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Squire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walking the Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Ward
Page Views: 2,255 total · 15/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route was said to be considered a 5.10, but I feel it is more in the 5.9 range. It is more difficult if you follow the direct bolt line (5.9+ maybe) but it appears that most parties stay left of the bolts until after the bulge.

*NOTE* This route is still relatively new as of this posting (11/06) and although I spent some time cleaning more of the broken rock, there is considerable breakage of the rock edges that haven't yet been worn down. I would advise wearing a helmet to belay until these routes get some more traffic.


This route is located at the far left end of HSTD. Head left of the obvious roof behind an outcrop. You climb/shimmy/stem up a small chimney to a sloping ledge below this and the two other routes.


Seven bolts to the chain anchors.


- No Photos -
I did this in Februrary 2011 and rock quality was no problem. It seems there has been enough traffic meanwhile. Jul 12, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I dunno... I mean even after I ate two dozen Christmas cookies this thing still felt like 10a. Good route and would be a good way to break into the grade. Dec 28, 2011
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
FYI the Handren book has this route rated 5.10 a/b. Definitely not 5.9 Nov 24, 2012
El Segundo, Ca
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
This was harder than 5.9 for sure. Maybe someone who climbs harder routes most of the time might not think its that hard, but for someone who barely leads 5.10b this was still hard to follow cleanly. As people have said if you go left of the bolt line it is easier. This wall is great for those fun long 5.8 routes, not this route. Feb 4, 2013
Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
Suburban Roadside   Abovetraffic on Hudson
grab a cup of coffee and a light rack stay on the route left ish, this is the verb sort of climb ,don't hang around, get on the rock, clock starts, so go . Jun 12, 2014
^^^^^I swear, some posts just give me the willies. What the fuck does any of that mean? Jun 17, 2014
Earl Arin
Las Vegas, NV
Earl Arin   Las Vegas, NV
yeah, agreed, wtf? Jun 23, 2014
The verb's the herb, glue your feet to the curb and jump down, turn around, pick a bale of cotton kinda route. No time for love doctor jones, roll the bones, kinda route, stay on the left, right, then be quick on your head foot, this route is enlarged to show detail, so let's drink from the bottle and get small, y'all.

If you know what I mean. That should help you climb this route. Jun 24, 2014

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