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Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome

Chrome Dome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Eights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De-Nogginizer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear & Loathing II T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gonzo Dogs T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother's Milk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Squire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walking the Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Ward
Page Views: 1,983 total, 15/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route was said to be considered a 5.10, but I feel it is more in the 5.9 range. It is more difficult if you follow the direct bolt line (5.9+ maybe) but it appears that most parties stay left of the bolts until after the bulge.

*NOTE* This route is still relatively new as of this posting (11/06) and although I spent some time cleaning more of the broken rock, there is considerable breakage of the rock edges that haven't yet been worn down. I would advise wearing a helmet to belay until these routes get some more traffic.

Location

This route is located at the far left end of HSTD. Head left of the obvious roof behind an outcrop. You climb/shimmy/stem up a small chimney to a sloping ledge below this and the two other routes.

Protection

Seven bolts to the chain anchors.

Photos

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The verb's the herb, glue your feet to the curb and jump down, turn around, pick a bale of cotton kinda route. No time for love doctor jones, roll the bones, kinda route, stay on the left, right, then be quick on your head foot, this route is enlarged to show detail, so let's drink from the bottle and get small, y'all.

If you know what I mean. That should help you climb this route. Jun 24, 2014
yeah, agreed, wtf? Jun 23, 2014
^^^^^I swear, some posts just give me the willies. What the fuck does any of that mean? Jun 17, 2014
grab a cup of coffee and a light rack stay on the route left ish, this is the verb sort of climb ,don't hang around, get on the rock, clock starts, so go . Jun 12, 2014
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.10a/b
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.10a/b
This was harder than 5.9 for sure. Maybe someone who climbs harder routes most of the time might not think its that hard, but for someone who barely leads 5.10b this was still hard to follow cleanly. As people have said if you go left of the bolt line it is easier. This wall is great for those fun long 5.8 routes, not this route. Feb 4, 2013
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
FYI the Handren book has this route rated 5.10 a/b. Definitely not 5.9 Nov 24, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10-
I dunno... I mean even after I ate two dozen Christmas cookies this thing still felt like 10a. Good route and would be a good way to break into the grade. Dec 28, 2011
steple
  5.10a
steple  
  5.10a
I did this in Februrary 2011 and rock quality was no problem. It seems there has been enough traffic meanwhile. Jul 12, 2011