Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Doric Column

Big Nasty, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Doric Column T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Off the Rails T A5
Type: Trad, Aid, 340 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969)
Page Views: 2,239 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.

Descent:Rap route

Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.

Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.

Location

The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.

Protection

Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.

Photos

Mr T
5.11 C0
Mr T  
5.11 C0
This route goes free at around 5.11. No aid needed, although pins are useful for protection. Old bolts are garbage. I placed two new bolts on lead.

Tried to change the rating but MP doesn't allow me to get rid of aid status……. Apr 27, 2014

More About Doric Column

Printer-Friendly Guide