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Routes in Wintergarden Wall

Bitchin' Piranha S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Changeling T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quality Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trickster Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
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Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 6, 2006
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Access Issue: This area is within the Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description [Edit]

Changeling is located just to the right of Trickster Coyote and is very similar in character. It is more sustained than Coyote, and felt a little harder than the 5.7 rating. Start up a face that quickly brings you to a small, shallow dihedral. There are some awkward, twisting moves through the dihedral. The crux is about half way up and involves thin face moves over thin gear. There is a small tricam pocket just above the crux and a couple of good Alien placements. As the route begins to move left and join Coyote, move right and follow a nice crack through a bulge (also awkward) and continue up to a good ledge shared with the top of Coyote. Bring a good selection of protection.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Tricams and TCUs helpful. Gear anchor, tree rappel.

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