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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 904 total, 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start climbing up a large flake hand crack or layback to the first bolt, about 15 feet. Make nice improbable moves past two more bolts to the crux. Here there are two bolts about two feet apart. Make the hard crux moves to another bolt to a nice rest. From here pass about 6 more bolts on easier ground to the anchors.

Location

On the opposite side of the arete of Rickety Rock. On the left are Ruffles Have Ridges and Crack Whores.

Protection

11 bolts to a chain anchor.

Grade

It's rated 10c in Beverly's Jemez Rock guide, but is probably at least 2 number grades harder. First clue was it's slightly overhanging nature with few holds. Second clue was 10c chalked on the wall with a "NO" symbol around it. So could be +/- a few letter grades but I found it way harder than the other 12b's in the area.
DaveT
Albuquerque
  5.13a
DaveT   Albuquerque
  5.13a
I really liked this route. Fun entry moves, cool boulder problem, and fun arete upper section! The only downside is it's a bit discontinuous and punctuated.

I was able to get the bad left hand pocket as a sidepull and sent the route at probably 13a, V6/7 crux. I was originally projecting it as just a downward pulling hold and it felt easily a solid V grade harder (13b?), but I never linked up through the crux. That said I also used a kneebar rest before the crux on the redpoint.

More detailed crux beta to piggyback on Lee's sequence:

- Getting the pocket as a sidepull: When you first move into the pocket, put your ring finger on the little positive nub on the right end of the bottom of the pocket (downward pulling), then stack your middle finger on top of your ring. As you pull down on the pocket and start to move up and right, you can then kind of just rotate those two fingers into the sidepull position and voila, you're sidepulling on your middle/ring and can pretty much reach the arete static. For the right foot on that move, I used the tiny foot chip inside the small shallow corner, not the farther right chip near the mini arete.

- The kneebar: it's a left knee at the horizontal break just below the crux. The only way I got it to feel decent was to layer my left hand (palm up) in between the rock and my thigh. Palm lands right on the undercling block. It's finicky but it definitely helps...you're not really using your left forearm muscles and right hand is free. Nov 17, 2015
Jfoley  
Nice job Bryan. Jun 29, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Nice job Lee! Apr 20, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13-
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13-
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta
Grade: 5.13- good starting point, let others get it more accurate
Name: still thinking. . .

Description: 5.11 climbing past 4 bolts with some nice back and forth movement on the arete leads to the break and a good rest. Make a long clip of the lower of 2 closely spaced bolts from an undercling then up right to a sidepull, get your feet up into the break. Left up to a gaston to reset the feet then again to the pocket at the bottom of the short seam (if you could grab it as a sidepull/undercling it would be great), the pocket is pretty good for one finger and sloping for another so it is kind of like a mono. Step up right onto a small point and fire out right to the arete, after catching it bump up to a decent hold. Past your feet to nothing good in particular and reach up with the left to a 3 finger pocket on the left side of a broken area. Wrap your right heal around the arete and bump up to the jug on the arete. You will skip one of the 2 closely spaced bolts, I only clipped the lower one on the send. From here mantle onto the arete, then more 5.11 climbing on the arete and laybacking a crack out left on the face gains lower angle climbing for the last 15-20 feet to the anchor which is up and left.

Protection: 11 bolts and a chain anchor, though when trying to send you will clip 10. An attentive belay, I did not take it, but a fall from the end of the crux seems as though it would land you on the arete. I don't think moving the bolt would solve this, though if it could be moved far enough right and still be clipable the fall might be better.

Notes:
-As of 4-19-09 there are no quicklinks or bail biners on the route.
-This is a fun route but it would be nice if it was a bit more continuous, sending really revolves around a 4 move sequence, from the time you move to the pocket till you get the huge jug on the arete. The crux is about V7. Apr 19, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Rumor has it that this is a Bryan Pletta route and is an open project still awaiting the FFA. The naming in the Jemez rock book was an error. Grade is probably closer to 13a. Nov 7, 2007