Type: Trad
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Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route

27 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


Not as good as the other Dihedral in the Narrows, but still a fun and unique climb. The Dihedral climbs the tiered dihedral system to the right of Great Expectations. Climb up the initial dihedral with good protection and positive holds. At the top, step right and head back into the low angled chimney formed by the face and the second dihedral. There is a slightly flared crack that splits the roof of the chimney. You can place a couple of marginal cams in the crack, otherwise the protection is not great (but the climbing is easy). Once you reach the top of the chimney, climb to the anchors at the top of Great Expectations and rappel with two ropes.


Standard rack (TCUs helpful). Shares anchors with Great Expectations.


Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
If you climb this on the original line, which is staying on the dihedral and not traversing right into the chimney, you'll have great pro the whole way. Big cams up high (#3 to #5). Nov 29, 2009
bad dude
Oklahoma City,OK
  5.6 PG13
bad dude   Oklahoma City,OK
  5.6 PG13
ran out the entire last section after stepping right. i may have been concerned if the climbing wasn't easy. Jan 23, 2012
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
You can rap from the shared anchors for Great Expectations and The Dihedral with 1 70m rope. It won't get you all the way back to the belay ledge, but it will get you back down to the well featured ledge just above the belay ledge. Don't forget to put knots in the end of your rope! You will need to downclimb like 15ft of 5.3 to get all the way down. Much easier than messing with 2 ropes. May 22, 2017