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Buzzard Peakbag T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Ingraham's Gully T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Normal Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Searching for Ingraham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: A. Hobson and R. Machina ??
Page Views: 484 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A failed attempt to find Ingraham's route "SouthWest Wall". What we ended up on was a dirty crack with deteriorating holds. I'm only including this as beta so other climbers can learn what to avoid.

Starting in a dirty fist crack, climb 15 ft up to a large pointy and unstable flake. From this gain another crack system which angles slightly left. A few face holds on either side of the crack help, but are not very solid (we broke a couple off completely). The crack thins down to a crux about 40ft up. Commit to the dicey crux and gain a thank-god ledge. Bail-away, the nex tpitch looks even worse.

Location

Approach as for Normal Route up to Dark Canyon. A short distance into dark canyon are two very large conifers (A ponderosa and a fir I think) only 20 ft apart. This climb starts up a crack directly behind the fir tree.

Protection

The cracks on this climb actually offer decent cam placements, except when they are real shallow. We left a long puprle poot sling at the belay ledge.

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