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Routes in (05) The Transition Zone

Doggie Go Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Factory Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have Slab Will Travel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Princess S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rode Hard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick To Stucco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wavy Gravy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Deborah Evans, Steven Hofmeyr, and Bernard Moret
Page Views: 695 total, 5/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is 15 feet to the right of Wavy Gravy, and the first route on the wall. The start is bulging and climbs a narrow grey slab to the left of the bolts, and you eventually find yourself right of the bolts. Pass between two small bushes higher up. Smearing and friction. Nice Route!

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
This is a great route to practice slab. It seems different every time I've got on it, and I've only finished it without falling once (out of 4 tries). Have fun on the bottom section, because if you're not comfortable on slab the upper section will get your adrenaline going. May 4, 2015
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise. Jul 27, 2009
This is a fun route with some good variations.

1. The short hand crack right of the start makes for nice jams(~9). Join Stucco above the 3rd bolt.

2. At second bolt, move right of the bolt, up the small nose and then onto the ledge up and right of the third bolt. Not sure I'd recommend this over the direct version but it is a harder lead with some good slab climbing.

Us old farts also like to take a 1/2 - 3/4 sized TCU and plug it up in the crack between 4th and 5th bolts. Apr 28, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
good climb though you never reall climb the bolt line. Start out left of the bolts then move to the right. Follow the crack to the right then step left again to a flake at the anchor. Apr 27, 2009