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Routes in North Tower

Northeast Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Serendipity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Ron Wiggle, 1974
Page Views: 798 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:This route starts with a stellar, slightly overhung, .75 camalot, splitter crack. Then the crack climbing ends and there are 1/4 inch studs that traverse left across the face, to a belay at a good ledge.
Pitch 2:Climb very loose rock past a few 1/4 inch studs to the summit.

Note: In Eric's book it says that the route goes free at .10a, this is not the case.

Location

This route is on the north east side of the tower. Near the right side of the face.

Protection

Standard desert free rack. Plus hangers and 1/4' nuts.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
Many of the lead bolts on both pitches have been replaced over the years, however it looked like you still have to commit to a number of 1/4" studs on P1. P1 anchor has two newer bolts and looks good. You can rap this with a single 60M in two raps, but you will need some tat to put on the P1 anchors. Nov 30, 2017
Ben Kiessel  
 
Check out our trip report at Brad's website:

piquaclimber.com/past/arrow… Nov 19, 2006

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