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Routes in 2. New Sandstone Area

Donkey On My Mind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Traverse T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Kingsbury Cruise T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laser Beam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shaking Hands With The Chimp T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wet Paper Bag T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Sangdahl, Bechler, Moir
Page Views: 2,245 total · 16/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please note that the New Sandstone area is currently closed to climbing. Details

Description

Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall. It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs despite the lack of much jamming. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch. While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even. While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.

Protection

A few cams (a #1 camalot for the top), some medium wires.

Photos

It should be noted that this area is still off limits to climbers so be careful and don't get caught. Jun 13, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12b
Cool route with a really hard crux! Sep 8, 2007
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
One the safest 5.12 leads in the park, my only 5.12 lead at the lake, but not clean, it was closed so after, never got the redpoint,
they say this route got 1 to 2 letter grades easer, after sticky rubber came out, Jun 3, 2009

More About Donkey On My Mind

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